The capital of murder, my trip to El Salvador

Writing blogs like this one gives me an amazing opportunity to achieve three important things. First, and probably most important, is that it will stay as way of a souvenir, reminding me places I was fortunate to visit. I recognize the second reason as a possibility to share my experience, tips, thoughts and observations with other travellers or readers. And last, but not least, is the fact that while writing all my memories, or at least most of them, are coming back to me again like a wave, like a wind of all those things I saw, touched, felt and tasted, almost experiencing them again.

Glad I finally can introduce, thought just in a small part, El Salvador to you. Currently holding, nicely said, a very uninviting title of being one of the most dangerous country. Somehow, yet again, from my experience numbers can lie or twist the first impression. Salvador, the smallest country in Central America, where one person got killed every hour, became to be my favorite place in this part of the world. I guess the fact that I found locals to be the friendliest, along with the tropical beauty around, helped to crashed the general opinion in my head. On another side this Centro-american land is apparently well known for experiences some of the highest murder rates in Latin America. It is also considered as an epicenter of the gang crisis, along with Guatemala and Honduras. Organized crime in El Salvador is a serious problem. It is estimated that around 36.000 of people belongs to the gang. Efforts to understand or deal with this phenomenon in the small Central American country have been insufficient. As mentioned, I am glad I visited Salvador, but had to start with cold information, just so you will research well areas to stay in. That will help you to prepare better for your trip and stay safe.

Probably not the best statistics to start with, and a breaking reason for many not visit this country. But let me tell you something, I traveled around there as solo female staying even in a very rough areas of capital and Santa Ana, and I could not, literally, see any good reason for not visiting. I stayed in El Salvador for 2 weeks in April 2016, twice in capital and once in Santa Ana. I traveled only by public bus, always being alone. Lack of English-speaking people around could be a problem indeed for many of us, but just with very basic Spanish, like I’ve had, you will be just fine. It is probably also good to mention that 95% of the deaths take gang members only and, I am afraid, police force. With good attitudes like, not walking after dark or in some most dangerous ares, you will be very safe and you will love Salvador, as I did.

Reasons why I loved Salvador most in Central America

Locals

The kindness, generous people, that I’ve met during my backpacking in Central America, I found in El Salvador. Either it was in a hotel, on the street, in the restaurant or just in the bus, people were always smiling to me, trying to help, chatting. They were very interesting in me, wanted to know where I am from, why I came, and how on earth I am alone here. All these factors made me feel very welcome. I received loads of warmnes from many true hearts. I just could not imagine a nicer nation, I think even in both Americas.  I will always remember all those guards with shotguns on the street always calling me to wave and say: buenos dias Anna, como esta. I was probably one of a very few tourists they saw before, as I never stayed in a touristic area, yet they weren’t reserved in any way towards me. Police were always stopping and asking me if I need a lift anywhere, people smiling all the time which make my whole experience just perfect.

Landscape

El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America. It has 307 km of coastline along the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Fonseca, and it is situated between Honduras and Guatemala. The topography of El Salvador contain mainly mountains, but the country does have some narrow, relatively flat central plateau. The highest point in is Cerro el Pital at 2,730 m, and it is located in the northern part of the country on the border with Honduras. Because El Salvador is located not far from the equator, its climate is tropical in nearly all areas except for its higher elevations where the climate is considered more temperate. Lakes and volcanoes found in many areas too.

Rich range of a street food

As a one of the poorest countries in Central America, gastronomy business creates some earning opportunities for many of locals. You will just never get hungry in Salvador as food stands are available on every single corner in every possible place. Vendors do offer a wide range of many meals from a very local snacks (pupusas-hand-made corn tortillas stuffed with various fillings such as beans; tamales-corn dough pockets that are served with different fillings like sweet corn, cheese, meat or dried fruits; pasteles-fried dough patties filled with meat like chicken, pork or beef and finely chopped vegetables; soups), along with more western options like chips (here eaten with mayo and cheese- see Germany, you’re not the only one:), burgers, pizzas; and finally finishing at any kind of shakes, natural fruit juices and many different sweets to pick. Any stomach will be satisfied in El Salvador.

Santa Ana Volcano

One of the most amazing places I have seen in my life, definitely in my top five. For more info about volcano and how to get there by public bus, please click here.

Cost line

307 km of coastline along the Pacific Ocean contains a sandy beaches with beautiful tropical flora around. Cost is also well popular among surfers.

Cheap prices

El Salvador is one of the cheapest countries in Central America. You can travel on public transport in the cities for maximum of 0.25$. The bus from capital to Santa Ana (2h of journey) cost as little as 1$. Hotel`s bed with bathroom can be found from 10$. Breakfast or lunch found on the street from 1$. Good place to buy some clothes at a very low price.

Just remember to

Please note, if you are planning on going to El Salvador, do some research on area you will be staying in. Most of them are just fine, but few are controlled completely by gangs and nobody can access them. Police is not welcome there, if a solo officer will go to that part of the town, he will get instantly killed.

Never walk after dark and try to avoid not crowded areas. Do not flash with your valuables like phone or camera, as thieving is very common there. Eh, that’s the reason I don’t have many photos from there.

Understanding a daily life in San Salvador

But please do understand that people of El Salvador struggle on a daily basis. As much as  part “what I loved most” of this blog can sound as a fairy tale, we have to recognize that people of this country are in constant fear of being murdered or abuse in any way, especially young males. Here, I have to add, that you as a tourist are very safe, way safer than locals, they are just not as fortunate as you are. Again, poorest people are at greatest disadvantage that are forced to live in roughest areas where violence occur on daily basis. A large percentage of the population lives under the poverty level, which means their chance for a decent standard of living is low. Their situation is so bad that many of them risk a dangerous trip up to the United States to look for better opportunities.

Every private business have to pay a tax to one of the gangs that control the area, street. It is normal to see a dead body on the street sometimes, and that almost every shop got his own bodyguard with a shotgun, rifle or machine gun. Guns are visible pretty much everywhere, and are normal even for children. In western countries you can see a non-smoking signs, when in Sal Salvador no-gun sights are everywhere. Some people are forced to travel at night, which is a very dangerous thing. Many have witnessed a murder or are accused of snitching to authorities, while others have been evicted by criminals who wanted their home. Those with money or relatives in safer areas often seek refuge within El Salvador.  Young girls tend to get pregnant at a very young age, just to avoid being claim by the gang members. It is well know that police and government is highly corrupted. Having said that, being a part of a force, is probably the most dangerous job to do as of war between gangs and the government. Fear is notable almost everywhere, buses are full of holes from bullets. Gang members are on every street, patrolling their territory, making sure money are collected from  business owners.

So this is a daily life in El Salvador, the country I felt in love with. As much as I hope to visit again, I would love to see the improvement on mayny levels, especially in crime rate and economy. Yet again, please note that this is one of the most amazing countries in the world, and with proper attitude you will be just fine, and you will experience and appreciate the people and the land, like I did.

4 thoughts on “The capital of murder, my trip to El Salvador

  1. I’m glad to read this. I am traveling Nicaragua now and have heard from most people that it is wise to skip El Salvador. I don’t want to, however. It’s good to get a positive opinion from another traveler 🙂

    Like

    1. Oh no, please dont skip it Kelly, you wont be disappointed. Please try, if possible, to see Santa Ana volcano. It is one of the most amazing places I have ever seen. Thank you for checking my post.

      Like

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