Tag: Balkans

Kosovo-Serbia border crossing issues

by Anna Powaska, posted in Balkans, Kosovo, Serbia

  This will be just a quick guide for all backpackers that are going to travel to Kosovo before Serbia, like myself. I will conclude all the information, you can find online, with my very recent experience on the issue (April 2017).

First, and most important, thing is that of course you can travel to Kosovo before heading to Serbia. However, you can not go directly from Kosovo. You have to do it via other country that is recognized by Serbian authorities. I, for example, from Pristina took a direct bus to Skopje in Macedonia (just 2h of journey). They ran very often from the main bus terminal, almost every hour. Mine was at 8.30 am. From Skopje you will catch another direct bus to Nis or Belgrade, or other city in Serbia. My departure to Nis was at 13.10 (4h of journey) from the same station, so Ive had some time to have a lunch.

Ok, so this all seems not so complicated and easy, but there are loads of issues about not being allowed to Serbia with the Kosovo stamps in your passport.IMG_2068.JPG Official uk.gov page adds a real drama to it, as it is written there that you can not cross the border, once you got stamped. Well, how can you not believe the official UK government info? No you can’t. I guess its been written to warn travelers that having a stamp might cause some problems, but it really doesn’t in practice.IMG_2070.JPG I’ve had a 2 big, fat Kosovo stamps in my passport, and I crossed the border with no drama. Just make sure to ask Macedonian side (or wherever you’re coming from) to stamp you, as they don’t always do so. Serbian border control went through all my stamps with no issues and just put a new Serbian visa in.

I have read that these two governments came to an agreement not to cause any further problem to the travelers, as it`s been known that some were refused to get in in the past. With my confidence, as of April 2017, I can assure you that you can enter Serbia with stamps from Kosovo, but you need to be stamp after in the country you are going via! Much love and good luck xx.

Disappointing bus to amazing Kosovo

by Anna Powaska, posted in Europe, Kosovo, Montenegro

  What the hell outta a journey that was. I am not keen on overnight buses, but I did not expect this at all. I traveled by public transport in Nepal (from Kathmandu to Pokhara), just 2 days after the main earthquake and during the aftershocks, through a very tiny roads in Himalayas. I did the whole South and Central America by bus, even the most uncomfortable and dangerous road (well, not even a road-a stony path) from Sucre to Cochabamba in Bolivia. Yet, this one was the worst, I think, I have ever experienced.IMG_2054I have to start with the fact that I’ve had no choice, but just to take an overnight bus from Podgorica (Montenegro) in order to reach Pristina, in Kosovo. There is only one transport a day that connects these two capitals, and it departs from Podgorica’s main bus station at 21.30. I really would not recommend to do so, as at the terminal I have spotted a very nice connection to Prizren in an early morning. I think at 7 am, as far as I remember. I have heard a great things from other travelers about this place, but was a bit late for me, as I already bought a ticket.

  So why was it so bad? Well, I guess it wasn’t only the bus itself, but also other circumstances reflected on the level of discomfort I have experienced. But starting from the beginning, I departed from lovely town on the cost of Montenegro, called Budva. I caught the bus at 11.15 am (they depart very often, at least every 1h) from the main station there, and arrived to Podgorica around 14.00. This leg of my journey was a real pleasure, as the whole road was trough the high range of mountains. The view was just breathtaking. Once I arrived at the capital of Montenegro, I bought a ticket for 21.30 departure, so I’ve had some spare time to look around. As much as I truly felt in love with this country, Podgorica, I am afraid, hasn’t got much to offer to the travelers. Well, maybe just a good dinner in the city center, but that’s about it. Instead of visiting things, I was just reading a book in the park. Not much of excitement for a place I have never seen before. Around 19.00 I went to the main bus station to wait. It is a very small one, so you will get really bored by waiting, but what else could I do? At 20.30 I went to sit by the bus stand, and as always, drunk jerk had to sit next to me to bother me all the way trough. Unlucky, he had the same bus, but was so drank, he got eventually kicked somewhere on the way. Or he kicked himself? Perhaps, as I haven’t whiteness any force involved in his termination. Anyway, while waiting there were 2 incidents at the station where police had to be involved. First one was as of result of a violent fight between two guys. Second one I did not see, but heard. All that made me feel a bit unsafe. Finally the bus arrived, and, as I could not ask for more (😂), it was just filed with male local passengers. I was under the watch all the time, human cctv. It was like back in Nicaragua…I was a black sheep again.

 All the way trough the border I was hoping Kosovar control will not stamp my passport, as I was going to Serbia next. Of course they did, and that fact made me even more stressed. Here, I will just add that later on I crossed the border to Serbia from Macedonia with no issues. Finally we arrived, and I was the last of 2 passengers remaining in the bus…what can I say.  It was still an early hour (5 am), so I had to wait at Pristina cold bus station before heading to my hotel.

   Well, the point of my pointless blog is that as bad as my journey was, as good I found the other side. I absolutely love people of Kosovo. They are very helpful, very kind, open to tourists and friendly. The owner of my hotel was amazing too, he even mad a traditional food for me, and we sat together and discuss the current situation, economy and problems of this, newly, independent country.

 Sometimes while traveling you have to experience worst, to receive something unforgettable and to fell the kind heart at the end, or maybe that helps to appreciate it more!

 

Matka Canyon by public bus from Skopje 2025

by Anna Powaska, posted in Balkans, Europe, Macedonia

  Once in Skopje Matka Canyon is a place you just have to visit. I could start with important reasons like: the beauty of the place, clear green waters of the Treska River, path trial trough the canyon…loads.

But how about the fact that Matka is located just 15 kilometers from the city? Yeah I know, just around the corner. Even if you are visiting capital just for one day, you can still add it to your schedule, as the public bus takes only 30-40 minutes to reach the canyon, and it arrives just right before the entrance. You can even get there by taxi.

To reach Matka Canyon from Skopje, here’s what you need to know:

  • Bus Route: Take bus N60 from the main bus station in Skopje. The bus stop is located at Pošta 1.
  • Fee: The bus ticket costs 35 MKD (approximately €0.60) each way. You will need a Skopje public transport card to pay for the fare.
  • Travel Time: The bus ride takes about 55 minutes, and from the drop-off point, it’s a 20-minute walk to the canyon.
  • Alternative Options: You can also take a taxi directly to Matka Canyon, which costs around €20–€25 and takes approximately 30 minutes.

There is no entrance fee for the canyon itself, but activities like kayaking or boat trips have separate charges.

  So in order to get to Matka Canyon, you have to take a number 60 bus that leaves from the main bus station. Please note that the stop is actually located on the right hand side of the main bus terminal behind the petrol station. The stand is somewhere in the middle, and it has a sign with number N60 next to it, so you really will find it with no hustle. Ultimately, you can catch it also from the city center, as the bus makes loads of stops in Skopje on the way.

The updated timetable for Bus N60 from Skopje to Matka Canyon in 2025 is as follows:

  • Departures from Skopje: 7:00 / 8:45 / 10:30 / 12:10 / 14:00 / 15:30 / 16:50 / 18:35 / 20:10 / 22:30
  • Return from Matka Canyon to Skopje: 7:45 / 9:40 / 11:20 / 13:05 / 14:55 / 16:20 / 17:45 / 19:20 / 21:00

The bus departs from the main bus station in Skopje, specifically from the stop located on the right-hand side of the terminal, behind the petrol station. Be sure to arrive at the stop at least 15 minutes early, as buses may occasionally leave ahead of schedule.


Unlucky, most of the bus stands here in capital don’t have any information, so you have to ask locals where is the most convenient stop for you, if you are not going from the main one or the one near the city center (tagged on the photo). In order to travel you need to buy a card. You can not pay to the driver by cash any longer. The travel card cost 150 MKD. That`s enough for 2 ways, and probably you will have some money on it left that you can use later on for other buses, if needed. Please don’t panic if the bus is late, it`s normal. I, for example, waited 10 minutes.

Going back

The updated timetable for Bus N60 returning from Matka Canyon to Skopje in 2025 is:

  • Departures from Matka Canyon: 7:45 / 9:40 / 11:20 / 13:05 / 14:55 / 16:20 / 17:45 / 19:20 / 21:00

The bus departs from the same location where you were dropped off upon arrival. It’s recommended to arrive at the stop at least 15 minutes early, as buses may occasionally leave ahead of schedule.

Rila Monastery from Sofia by bus

by Anna Powaska, posted in Balkans, Bulgaria, Europe

 Hidden in the mountain wildness 1174 meters high above the sea level, Rila Monastery became as a number one attraction in Bulgaria. Remarkable scenery around and an impressive monk`s building itself creates something truly magnificent and definitely worth seen.

When you look at it, you can notice how well the architecture collaborates with surrounded nature. It feels almost like monastery grew from the ground respecting the peaceful flora around. The location makes it easy to be reached from the capital of Bulgaria on a daily bases. So here I come with my advise for you guys, on how to get to that remarkable place yourself.

  Before heading off please take a warm clothes with you like jacket, shoes etc. There is still snow (March, April) around, and the temperature can be very low. Ok, so after my grany`s tips, we are ready to go.

 In order to reach Rila Monastery you need to catch a bus from Ovcha Kupel bus station. You can get there by tram number 5, and you can do that from the stop by Palace of Justice in the city center, from where the tram departs. The ticket cost just 1.80 lev and can be bought from the driver. Well…I have been told by one local that it is 1.60, so maybe the driver charges a little for an extra job as a seller. I guess number 5 departs very often as, even that it was Sunday, I waited only 5 mins. Once you are in the tram, you can count stops to get off on 13th (or 12?). You will see a Kaufland shop on the left and an ABC market on the right, so you wont miss it!

   Now go to the right, and just 300 m away you will find a bus station. Don’t bother to ask for the ticket at the counter, as it can be only purchased in the bus. It cost 11 lev (march 2017) one way, and it can be paid only by cash. Please note, that the bus is always full, and it`s the only one you can catch for the trip, so please be earlier to claim a ticket and sit. Mine was full, people were standing (2h drive), and I`ve witnessed that 2 people were deny as of lack of the space. I would suggest to be 30 mins before to be 100% sure that you will get to the Rila that day. Bus will leave at 10.20 am (it should wait there 30 mins before the departure time) from the stand number 7.

As I mention before, the journey takes around 2h. Please keep your ticket with you just in case, as we had to change the bus in one little cute town just 30 mins away from monastery. We also stopped there for half an hour. The second bus came exactly to the same place where the first one dropped us. Nobody checked our tickets, but as I mentioned, just keep it with you. From there the journey was very pleasant with spectacular view of the mountain range, rivers and forest on the way. We arrived after 30-40 minutes right by the entrance at exactly 13.00. The same bus (from the same place) departs at 15.00 back to Sofia, and that is your only option to get back, or you will have to get very friendly with local monks, so they will accommodate you….but highly not possible. Well actually there is a hotel on the side, but to be frank, one day is more than enough to see monastery, unless you want to hike some hills around. You will be given 2 hours to look around, and that is enough time, trust me. There is no fee for the entrance which makes the whole trip extremely cheap (around 10 Euros total). Please go around to see everything and visit impressive church in the center. The side feel so peaceful (even with tourists around), you almost want to stay forever.  High peaks, that surround the place, creates a beautiful background to the mystical and old monastery. There is a museum to visit too, but you need to pay 8 Lev entry fee (20 with English speaking guide). To warm you up, coffees and teas are available from the dispensary machine and from loads of other stands. There is one restaurant (accepts cards) on the side where you can have a good meal for a fair price, but please remember you need to get off at 15.00. Souvenirs shops with little figures, postcards, local honey and loads more are around too. Have a look, they do have loads of interesting and unusual stuff there. 2 free toilets are available on the side. If you have a spare bottle, get some water from the well, it is a great quality one.

Places to see in Rila Monastery:

  • The Church (located just in the heart of the monastery
  • Museum (on the right hand side)
  • The cookhouse (can be found not far from the restaurant and food stands)
  • Monastic cells

I have read online that there is a cave to see too, but it`s located 4 kilometers away, and I don’t think it is possible to do with your 2 hours time restriction.

  Time to go “home”

   There is a time for an end for everything, and at Rila Monastery (for the one who took a public transport) that time is 15.00. So again you will get a return ticket from the driver, and you will head back to Sofia to the same bus station from where you departed. You should be back before 17.30, and this time we did not have to change the bus. Again, you can catch a tram back to the city center. The whole journey from the start is nice, easy and very cheap. The end.

Travelling between Bucharest and Sofia

by Anna Powaska, posted in Bulgaria, Europe, Romania

 There are loads of out of date information online about connections between Bucharest and Sofia and vice versa, so I decided to enrich the internet with more current schedules (March 2017). To complete your goal, either you will take a bus or train. Fly is an option too, but I know that is expensive.

Bus

  I took a bus to travel to Sofia from Bucharest. As of march 2017 there are no longer any companies with minibuses that provides a service between these two capitals. My transport was a direct one.

IMG_1635
Dodgy Filaret Bus Station

I paid 120 Lei (around 26€) for the trip, and I bought the ticket at the Filaret Bus Station, from where the bus departs. Please note that you can pay only in cash, and there is no cash machine there, so be prepared. Purchasing at the station is  the only option so far, so I am afraid it is not possible to book your sit online. Actually, I remember that when I approach the counter to buy a ticket, the kind lady told me that I need to wait 5 minutes till she will finish eating her banana…. I gave her 20 in case she had some afters to consume too. No problem whatsoever, I’ve been trough worst. Eventually banana lady served me, and she spoke as good English as was required to close the deal.

IMG_1626The Filaret Bus station, that probably isn’t very impressive but do the job, is located in southern part of the city, but still close to the center (around 20-30 mins walk from Parliament). Ultimately you can always take a bus, tram or taxi. My local Romanian friend advised me that taxi shouldn’t cost more than 8-9 Lei from the city center.IMG_1638As I mentioned before, I didn’t manage to find any current info online, so I took a bus that was departing at 16.00. Now I know that there is another bus that leaves at 13.00, so you can arrive way earlier (god if I only knew, I wouldn’t have to drive with drank taxi driver in Sofia, I could just walk). It does say at the counter’s window that bus arrives at 23.30 at Sophia’s main station for buses and trains (located north of the city center), but we arrived at 22.40, and that was probably due to the fact that the border wasn’t busy at all. We stopped there only for 5 minute where our passports got checked. There is also another bus from different company that leaves at 22.30 from Filaret too,  so you have 3 direct options: 13.00, 16.00 and 22.30, and they run from Monday to Sunday. The bus will leave from stand number 1. Even that it was a Friday, vehicle was almost empty, so I claimed all 5 sits at the end to stretch my legs. Joking, just 3. Mine did not have a toilet, so either don’t drink or use charming bathroom (1 Lei) at the Filaret Bus Station prior departure.IMG_1629.JPG

On the way it will stop just twice, and journey takes around 7h. First stop will be after the border on Bulgarian side and just for 10 minutes. I am sure there must be a toilet, but I couldn’t locate one. Second stop will be a bit longer, 20 minutes, where you can use a loo and buy something to eat or drink. Toilet will cost 0.30 Bulgarian Lev. Once you will reach your destination, you can walk 20 minutes to the center, take a taxi (I paid 4.40 Lev), tram or bus.

Option 2

  There are several buses that leaves hourly to Russe (Bulgarian side). From there, just outside the border, you can catch another one to Sofia. As fare as I am aware, it will be twice cheaper, but I just couldn’t be bother .

Train

 Please check current timetable, but for sure train leaves twice a day from Nord Station at 12.45 and 22.25, and it should cost around 30 euros. My French friends from hostel told me that they are very comfortable but slow, and you can book a bed for overnight train there too.

Sofia to Skopje by bus

by Anna Powaska, posted in Bulgaria, Europe, Macedonia

 Welcome again in my so-called “from A to B” section where I will advise you on the best (or not?) ways of traveling between capitals. I will also share with you my adventures like: buying a ticket, looking for a toilet…etc. This time we are looking at connections between Sofia (Bulgaria) and Skopje, a city in Macedonia.img_1697.jpgI know that a train is a possible option, but it is not a direct one (you have to change at Nic, and it takes 10h, so no thanks), so I simply took a bus. Four-wheeler leaves from the terminal north of the city center. You can get there by underground, bus: 78, 213, 404 and tram: 3 and 12. Public transport costs 1.60 lev for one single ride. Taxi is a good option too, as you should pay just 5 lev from the city center. Once you are around, please don’t head to the big fancy, glassy new  terminal, that’s not the one you are looking for. The bus station you need is located just across the street 100 meters away from the other terminal, I mentioned, on a right hand side. It looks like a square with little shops and travel agencies all around with the bus stands in the center. IMG_1699.JPGI have chosen to go with Matpu. It is also possible that it is the only company that provides this service right now (march 2017). Bus will depart from the stand just next to the Matpu office, from where you got your ticket. The whole journey was a quiet pleasant experience. Bus did accommodate me in a confi chair, and there was a fast wifi available to use (but just on Bulgarian side…fair enough), so I was streaming youtube all the way till border. IMG_1821Also there was not many passengers in, so I could claim 2 sits to stretch. Toilet was there as well. The ticket can be paid by cash and by card at Matpu office. I paid 30 lev, a fair price for a journey between 2 countries. Three departures at: 9.30, 16.00 and 19.00 are the part of a daily schedule that is valid everyday. Please note that there may be other company that serves this route, but I can’t be definitely sure, as there was no info to be found online. Once you purchase your ticket, maybe in case just use a toilet on the side (0.60 lev), as the bus will stop only once by the loo, and the one in the vehicle may be either unavailable or not-existing. The journey takes around 5.45 h, but you will get to Skopje around 14.00, as of a time change (if you are taking 9.30 bus like me).

 The border crossing might be a bit annoying. It is probably due to the fact that you are leaving a Schengen now. Your passport will be checked twice by Bulgarian and Macedonian side. Border control will do the same with your bag, it will be search twice, so maybe don’t try to smuggle anything 😉 Sniffing dogs are at the border too. After 30 mins, you will get back to the bus, and you will head off to Skopje. You will arrive at the main bus terminal that is located east of the city center. One you’re out, you will get attacked by taxi drivers offering their service. Take it if you are tired, they will charge you a fair price. The capital is very small, so I just walked to my accommodation. It took me 15 minutes to get to the main square in the center. So that’s it, you reached your destination…congratz, now leave your bag and go to explore the city!