Getting to Kościeliska Valle in Tatra Mountains by public bus from Zakopane with timetable

  Kościeliska Valle is one of the most beautiful valleys in Poland. Located around Tatra Mountains on a Polish side of the range creates an absolutely amazing and breath-taking trial. It is one of the most popular family walk while visiting close by Zakopane, as the whole path up to Ornak Hall (Hala Ornak-Schronisko) is flat and easy done even by a small children. Walk from the entrance right up to hall, even with breaks, wont take longer than 2 hours one way. There are also 4 caves on the way to add, but you have to allow extra time for it, as some of them are located 1h of walk away from the main road of the valley, some just 25 mins. This place is definitely a must see and can be extended to a proper hike trial, if you will carry on after Ornak Hall. More or less, even that the entrance to the park is located 20 mins ride from the center of Zakopane, you do not need to take a taxi. Bus is the best and cheapest option. Some can also get to Kiry, for Kasprowy Wierch cable card, with one of the numerous mini buses operating in the area or a public PKS bus. The ticket cost just 3zl (less than 1$) each way, and is paid to the bus driver only by cash. There are two main bus stops in Zakopane. One is at the main Bus Station and the other one at the beginning of Krupowki Street, main street in Zakopane. Both places got a signs pointing the bus stop, in polish called Dolina Kościeliska or Kościelisko. Please see the map attached for bus stop near Krupowki street.


Zakopane – Kościeliska Valle

And here is a timetable, but please be at the stop 10-15 mins before, as the bus is always early and never waits!! Welcome to Poland 🙂IMG_4534

  • Bus line 110 (Zakopane – Dolina Chocholowska) stops at the bus stop marked on the map on the right, at the beginning of Krupowki street at: 7.08 (this service runs only between 01.07-30.09); 7.21 (this service runs only between 25.04-31.10); 8.36; 8;53 (this service runs only between 01.07-30.09); 10.03; 11.21; 13.24; 15.09; 16.29 (this service runs only between 25.04-31.10); 17.42 (this service runs only between 25.04-31.10). Just ask anyone in the bus where to get of for Koscieliska Valley (most tourists will get off there probably anyway).
  • Bus 70 Zakopane – Kościelisko (Koscieliska Valley). This bus-stop is by the FIS Bar, see map on the right, or from bus stop nr 2 at Aleje 3-ego Maja. This timetable is from center, so from FIS Bar please be 15 mins earlier.
    8:00k, 9:10, 10:08, 12:31, 13:42, 14:58, 16:00, 18:05, 19:10, 20:15, 21:15, 22:15b
  • Bus 72 Zakopane (Aleje 3-ego Maja bus stop nr 02) – Dolina Kościeliskiej (Koscieliska Valley):
    7:30k, 8:49, 9:55, 10:59, 12:15, 14:00, 15:06, 16:09, 17:09

legend:

b – only in summer and winter season
k – Monday till Friday only
BUS do not run on 1 and 2 day of Easter, Christmas  01.11 and 15.06

  • Bus “JJAS”near Zakopane main bus station, departing from Bar FIS (see map on IMG_4748the right) towards Dolina Kościeliska (Koscieliska Valley): 6.50, 7.50, 9.00, 10.25, 12.20, 13.20, 14.30, 15.30, 16.25, 17.35, 18.15, 19.20, 20.15
  • Bus “BolBus”near Zakopane main bus station, departing from Bar FIS (see map on the right) via Dolina Kościeliska (Koscieliska Valley) towards Dolina Chochołowska (Chocholowska Valley): 8.15L, 8.50A, 9.15L, 9.50A, 10.15L, 10.40A, 11.05L, 11.30A, 13.00L, 14.00A, 14.30L, 15.00A, 15.30L, 15.55, 16.30L, 16.50A, 17.30L, 18.30L, 19.30L 

legend:
A – Except Sunday, 1 and 2 day of Easter and Christmas 01.11 and 15.06
L- Do not run on 1 and 2 day of Easter, Christmas, 01.11, and New Year and 15.06


Kościeliska Valle-Zakopane

Return bus stop from Kościeliska Valley offers loads of options towards Zakopane, almost every 15-20 minutes in high season time. Just please don’t be later than 18.00 – 19.00 to be sure to catch one. Thought, they run till 21.00, I suggest to take earlier one anyway. Here, I will just write few examples. They all stop in few places in Zakopane (near main street Krupowki, finishing usually near main bus station). The bus stop is located just outside of the entrance to the park (to the left, when leaving the valley)

  • Bus 105 towards Zakopane: 8.40; 9.02; 9.41; 10.27; 11.25; 11.38; 12.32; 13.02; 13.37; 14.15; 14.38; 15.30; 15.52; 16.47; 17.25; 18.02; 18.28 (this last service runs only between 1.07-30.09)
  • Bus 70 Lider Bus towards Zakopane (Kościelisko – Zakopane)
    7:27k, 8:20, 9:32,11:57, 13:00, 14:00, 15:25, 18:25, 19:28, 20:45, 21:35b

legend:
k – Monday till Friday only 
BUS do not run on 1 and 2 day of Easter, Christmas  01.11 and 15.06

  • Bus 72 towards Kuźnice trough Zakopane (Dol. Kościeliska – Zakopane – Kuźnice)
    6:50k, 8:00, 9:20, 10:22, 11:30, 13:20, 14:25 15:30, 16:28

legend:
k – Monday till Friday only 
BUS do not run on 1 and 2 day of Easter, Christmas  01.11 and 15.06

  • Another bus line towards Zakopane that runs from Mon till Fr: 6.20, 7.30, 8.30, 9.35, 11.30, 14.30, 15.30, 16.35, 18.30. Sat-Sun: 6.20, 8.30, 11.30, 14.30, 16.35, 18.30
  • Another bus line towards Zakopane main bus station (Zakopane PKP) that runs from Mon till Fr: 6.02, 6.37, 7.02, 7.32, 8.22, 9.12, 9.52, 11.07, 12.32, 13.02, 14.02, 14.52, 16.02, 16.52, 17.22, 18.12, 19.42, 20.42, 21.52. Sat-Sun: 6.37, 7.02, 8.42, 9.52, 11.07, 13.02, 14.52, 16.02, 16.52, 18.02, 18.52, 19.42, 21.52.

Best and cheapest restaurants in Wrocław-culinary heaven for backpackers

 We all, as backpackers, know way to well what daily budget means to us, and how essential is to stuck to it! We have to fallow the plan on accommodation prices, food, other pleasures and transport. I can not say you will find the cheapest hostel and, especially, hotels in Wrocław, city in Poland, but when it comes to meals…luckily we do offer few very good and very affordable restaurants. You can have a breakfast there from 1$ with a coffee, a soup for 0.40$ and a lunch/dinner starting at as little as 2$. And do not think it compares the quality of the food, because it really doesn’t. Food is home-made, traditional and simply delicious!! Those restaurants are also very popular for students, that usually have a limited budged themselves. The only minus, I am afraid, is that the staff do not speak any English and that might be hard for travelers, but there is always someone around to help. Once you will master the task of getting an order, you just wont be disappointed. Here, I will write about top ten best and cheapest restaurants and some milk bars, as we call them, you can find in the city center in Wroclaw, so lets start!

Miś Milk Bar (Bar Mleczny Miś)

Definitely my number one and all time favorite. I always dine there when possible and when in the city center area, and not because is very cheap. Students favorite too and well popular in general in Wroclaw, offering anything from breakfast, lunch and dinner at lowest possible price with and old school vibe present all around. And, most importantly, all is well made, and taste very good. Location is just perfect, right next to University of Wroclaw and very close to the main square and town hall. Please trust me and pop in for a lunch! The only minus is that some dishes, like pierogi, go fast and after 14.00 its difficult to order them. Opening hours also may be a problem for travelers who like to eat late, otherwise nothing is stopping you!

Address: ul. Kuźnicza 48, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 8.00–18.00, Sat: 8.00–17.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

  • Traditional Polish dumplings with meat (250g) – 2$/Pierogi z mięsem (250g) – 6.20 zł
  • Traditional Polish dumplings with white cheese and potatoes (250g) – 1.5$/Pierogi ruskie (250g) – 4.50 zł
  • Scrambled eggs – (2 eggs) – 0.40$/Jajecznica (2 jajka) – 1.50 zł
  • Traditional Polish rice and mince meat wrapped in cabbage with tomatoe sauce (350g) – 1.80$/Gołabki z sosem (350g) – 4.93 zł
  • Meat balls (100g) – 1.20$/Kotlet mielony (100g) – 3.70 zł
  • Beef stake in bread crumbs (100g) – 2$/Kotlet schabowy (100g) – 6.50 zł
  • Pork liver (100g) – 1.5$/Wątróbka wieprzowa (100g) – 4.80 zł
  • Goulash from pork meat (200g) – 2.20$/Gulasz wieprzowy (200g) – 7.60 zł
  • Sweet rice with strawberries – 1.40$/Ryż z truskawkami – 4,20 zł
  • Pancakes with white cheese and sugar (220ge) – 0.90$/naleśniki z serem i cukrem (220g) – 3,09 zł
  • Dumplings with meat (300g) – 1.80$/ Pyzy z mięsem (300g) – 5 zł
  • Traditional salad from cucumber and sour cream (100g) – 0.50$/Mizeria (100g) – 1.50 zł
  • Chicken breast in bread crumbs (120g) – 2$/Filet z kurczaka (120g) – 6.50 zł
  • Pasta with four different cheeses and broccoli (300g) – 0.70$/Makaron 4 sery z brokułami (300g) – 2.35 zł
  • Krokets with yellow cheese and mushrooms (2 pieces) – 2$/Krokiety z serem i pieczarkami (2 sztuki) – 5.50 zł
  • Potatoes in oil (200g) – 0.30$/Ziemniaki z tłuszczem (200g) – 1.03 zł
  • Rice (200g) – 0.25$/Ryż (200g)- 0.73 zł
  • All soups from 0.40 to 1$/Zupy od 1.50 do 3.15 zł
  • All the salads on the side (100-200g) from 0.20$ to 0.80$/Surówki i sałatki  (100-200g) od 0.66 do 2.60 zł
  • Custard with cream and sugar (200g) – 0.40$/Budyń ze śmietana i cukrem – 1.40 zlMis.jpg

     Mewa Milk Bar (Bar Mleczny Mewa)

Another milk bar very similar to Miś Milk Bar. Also in the city center area, just a bit further north. Prices and menu are very similar to Miś, so you can have a tasty, homemade, delicious meal at a very affordable price. The big plus is that this place seems less busy than Miś, but also very popular. Pierogi are served from 13.00 and are the most popular dish, so you need to pop in earlier to have a chance to get them.

Address: ul. Drobnera 4, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 9.00–18.00, Sat: 9.00–16.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

All dishes and prices are very similar to Miś Bar (see above).


Jacek i Agatka Milk Bar (Bar Mleczny Jacek i Agatka)

Located in the city center makes a perfect place for a delicious, homemade breakfast, lunch or dinner. Another very popular one, but less busy than Mewa and Miś. This milk bar offers more than 100 positions to choose from, so every mouth would be satisfied.

Address: pl. Nowy Targ 27, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 8.00–18.00, Sat: 9.00–17.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

All dishes and prices are very similar to Miś Bar (see above).


MiszMasz Restaurant (Restauracja MiszMasz)

MiszMasz is one of the cheapest restaurants in Wroclaw. It is very close to University of Wroclaw, so it is a very popular place to eat for students. Apart from typical traditional Polish food, like pierogi or kartacze, you can also find a sweet and sour chicken or Mexican tortilla.

Address: Nożownicza 14-16 Street, 50-119 Wrocław
Opening hours: Everyday: 11.00–20.30

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

  • Traditional Polish dumplings filled with potato and white cheese (8 pieces) – 3$/Pierogi ruskie (8 szt) – 9,60 zł

  • Vegetarian risotto – 3$/Wegeteriańskie Risotto – 9.60 zł
  • Chips, chicken tight, salad, drink – 3$/Udko z kurczaka, frytki, surowka, napoj – 9.90 zł
  • Chicken breast in dill sauce, potatoes, salad, drink – 3.80$/Filet drobiowy w sosie koperkowym, ziemniaki, surówka, napój – 11.90 zł
  • Steak in bread crumbs, potatoes, salad, drink – 4$/Schabowy, ziemniaki, surówka, napój – 12,50 zł

  • Sweet and sour chicken, rice, salad, drink – 3.70$/Kurczak słodko-kwaśny, ryż, surówka, napój – 12,90 zł

Promotions

Happy Hour. After 20:00 every meal is 50% cheaper.

Free large beer at order above 9.90 zl (3$)…… ulalalalalalal, Homer say yes!


Witek Bar (Bar Witek)

This bar offers a great traditional range of our old school PRL toasts – a typical Polish fast food during the communism time. It has been opened in 1979 and still serve one of the best and very cheesy toasts with mushrooms. Portions are very big and very filling.

Address: ul. Wita Stwosza 40/1a, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 9.30-19.00, Sat: 10.30-18.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

  • Traditional toast with cheese and mushrooms – 2.5$/Tost tradycyjny z pieczarkami i serem – 8 zł
  • Village style toast with mushrooms, cheese, sausage and onion – 3$/Tost wiejski – pieczarki, ser, kiełbasa wiejska, cebula – 9,70 zł
  • Salad with feta (600g) served with bread – 3.20$/Sałatka z serem feta (600g) podawana z pieczywem – 11 zł
  • Open-faced toasted cheese sandwich with mushrooms – 2$/Zapiekanka tradycyjna z pieczarkami i serem – 7 zł

    Bar Mały (Mały Bar)

Another amazing milk bar near the city center. This one is open a bit longer. You can find loads of tourists here, as its very close to the main train and bus station. Food is homemade and very traditional, however a bit more expensive than other milk bars like Miś or Mewa.

Address: ul. Kołłątaja 27/28, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Sat: 10.00–19.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

  • Traditional Polish dumplings – 2.80$/Pierogi ruskie – 9 zł
  • Pancakes with cheese or apples or spinach – 2.80$/Naleśniki z serem, jabłkami lub szpinakiem – 9 zł

     Bazylia Restaurant (Restauracja Bazylia)

There is no way I will not think about Bazylia without remembering my time at university. This buffet style restaurant is located inside one of the law department buildings, where I studied. I cant say the food is top mach, but I love the fact that its cheap, you can fill your plate with everything you like, and you pay same price of 0.80$ (2.79 zł) per 100g. I used to eat there after my lectures, exams, alone, with friends or family. The other thing about this place is location and surrounded stunning architecture you can enjoy while eating.

Address: ul. Kuźnicza 42, Wrocław 
Opening hours: Mon–Sun: 10.00–19.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

This is a buffet style restaurant where you add to the plate anything you like and pay for 100g. You will find there anything from traditional dumplings, salads, fish, chicken, goulash to chinese chicken with bamboo. Price is 2.79 zł, that’s 0.80$, for 100g.

Promotions

After 17.00  all 15% cheaper, after 17.30 all 25% cheaper and after 18.00 all cheaper by 50%.


Karmazyn Bar (Bar Karmazyn)

This amazing bar is located in one of the biggest indoor markets in Wroclaw, called Hala Targowa, so after a very tasty traditional, homemade meal you can have a look around.

Address: ul. Piaskowa 17, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 9.00–18.30, Sat: 9.00–15.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

All dishes and prices are very similar to Miś Bar (see above).


Sunny Bar (Bar Słoneczny)

One of my earliest discovery of amazing homemade food at very low price. However, this bar is special for me for another reason. Staff keeps some unused food to share later with homeless people and that is a huge plus for me!

Address: ul. Komandorska 147, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr 10.00–18.00, Sat: 10.00–17.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

  • Traditional Polish dumplings – 2$/Pierogi ruskie – 6 zł
  • Greek fish (100g) – 1.5$/ Ryba po grecku (100g) – 4.20 zł
  • Fish filet in bread crumbs (100g) – 2$/Filet z ryby (100g) – 6.90 zł
  • Pork liver (100g) – 1.5$/Wątróbka wieprzowa (100g) – 4.80 zł
  • Goulash from pork meat (200g) – 2$/Gulasz wieprzowy (200g) – 6.90 zł
  • Sweet rice with strowberrys – 1.40$/Ryż z truskawkami – 4,20 zł
  • Pancakes with white cheese and strawberries (1 pancake) – 1$/naleśniki z serem i truskawkami (sztuka) – 3,20 zł
  • Dumplings with meat (300g) – 2.80$/ Pyzy z mięsem (300g) – 8.50 zł
  • Traditional salad from cucumber and sour cream (100g) – 0.90$/Mizeria (100g) – 2.90 zł
  • Chicken breast in bread crumbs (120g) – 2.5$/Filet z kurczaka (120g) – 8.80 zł
  • Ribbs (100g) – 1$/Żeberka (100g) – 3.60 zł
  • Lasagne (100g) – 1.20$/Lasagne (100g) – 4 zł
  • Potatoes (200g) – 0.80$/Ziemniaki (200g) – 2.40 zł
  • Chips (120g) – 1$/Frytki (120)g – 3.50 zł
  • All soups from 0.80 to 1.5$/Zupy od 2.50 do 4.20 zł

“Argentina has the waterfalls but Brazil has the balcony”. Choosing a gateway to see Iguazu Falls from Paraguay/Brazil/Argentina

  Wouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone, who visited South America, the fact that Iguazu Falls are clearly the most known waterfalls on this continent. Going even further, one of the most impressive in the rest of the world, as they can easily and proudly be competitive with Niagara Falls. Having seen “Latino” one, I can confidently say that Iguazu stand out and outshine as way more incredible. They are taller than Canadian one, twice as wide, and are one of the greatest natural wonders of the world, with the area around marked as the UNESCO World Heritage. Iguazu Falls (Portuguese: Cataratas do Iguaçu, Spanish: Cataratas del Iguazú, Tupi: Y Ûasu “big water”) are situated near the border of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Water falls of the Iguazu River that rises near the city of Curitiba, on the border of the Argentinian province of Misiones and the Brazilian state of Paraná. The river, for most of its course, flows through Brazil, however, most of the falls are on the Argentinian side. They creates a natural water border between these countries, and they are the largest waterfall system in the world (275 waterfalls). The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. Below its confluence with the San Antonio River, that forms the boundary between Argentina and Brazil. Falls are set among National Parks, which consist of subtropical rain-forests that are home to hundreds of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna.

  The falls are very well known to every backpacker traveling through the continent or just around Brazil, Argentina or Paraguay, marking a very important dot on their map. There are two most popular gateways to discover these absolutely magnificent, violent and impressively big waters. First one is a Brazilian city called Foz do Iguaçu. Second, Argentinian town named Puerto Iguazú. Close by Ciudad del Este, in Paraguay, that is separated from Brazilian town just by the bridge, named Puente de la Amistad (Friendship Bridge), creates also an easy way to reach our destination. I have seen all three of them, so If you’re in a rush and can pick just one location, you may want to have a look at some comparisons below. I will also write briefly about Argentinian and Brazilian side of the waterfalls to help you pick one, if you can not see both side, which, in my opinion, is ideal, but not always a case for everyone.

Iguazu falls from Brazilian side

  • Three possible ways to experience the falls: from the top (but only from the side), from the bottom (Devil’s Throat, please take a waterproof jacket!) and by boat.
  • You can book a helicopter ride (only available on the Brazilian side) that cost around 100$.
  • This side offers a bus service connecting the falls with other activities. That service runs from the entrance to the end of the park every 10 minutes in both directions.
  • You’ll get to see the entire panorama of cascades, and this view cannot be duplicated on the Argentinian side.
  • Better Viewpoints, but really only a couple different of them.
  • Really cool bird park just outside the gates of the Brazilian National Park entrance.
  • As of a smaller area of the park, can be done in half of the day.
  • Entrance ticket is cheaper.

Iguazu falls from Argentinian side

  • Iguazú National Park is much bigger than its Brazilian counterpart, with more trails to walk along, and some that lead you right into the open water. You’ll need at least a full day (or two) to see it all and walk all of its trails.
  • Boat trips available too.
  • The Garganta del Diablo, bridge above the falls, literally swallows you up as you walk towards the end. It is probably the most impressive viewpoint where you appreciate the absolute power of the falls. The bridge extends all the way to the edge of the falls, as tons of water plunge aggressively into the far distance.
  • Available zip line.
  • You can get right on top of the waterfall, not exactly possible on Brazilian side.
  • On the Argentinian side of the park, there’s a small train leaving about every half an hour from near the entrance, going all the way to the beginning of the trail to the Garganta del Diablo.
  • There are many more options on the Argentinian side, and that is the side where you would want to spend more time.
  • 20% falling on to the Brazilian side and an impressive 80% in Argentina

The biggest difference, in my opinion, between Argentina and Brazil was that in Argentina you can see falls from right of the top, giving you the impression of standing on them. In Brazil, however, you have the impression of standing kind of under the waterfalls. Two totally different thing that are possible only on each side. Very difficult to compare.

Foz do Iguaçu (city in Brazil)

Pluses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is a city, and that gives you the opportunity to stuck up on anything you may be missing.
  • The prices around are not to high, and probably close by Ciudad del Este participate in this fact too.
  • There are few big discount shops around for a budget backpackers. Cheap street food stand can be easily found all around.
  • Bus, that goes to the falls, is located in the city center, very close to the big bus station.
  • Zoo to visit.
  • More hotels, restaurants and other amenities.
  • Not as touristic as Puerto Iguazú.

Minuses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is probably the worst city, I have stayed in while traveling around South America.
  • Main bus station, that connect cities (arriving from Florianopolis for example), is located far away from the center, which makes it difficult to just walk to your accommodation
  • Not many things to do around.
  • Not the friendliest people, I have met.

Puerto Iguazú (town in Argentina)

Pluses

  • Pleasant, safe, quiet and cute little town, so It is easy to find your way around.
  • Closest to Argentinian side of the falls.
  • Loads of travelers around to meet.
  • People seems more friendly than on Brazilian side.

Minuses

  • Very expensive prices, as generally in Argentina.
  • Not many cash machines around, and some do not accept your cards.
  • Nothing really to do in the town.
  • Expensive restaurants, set for tourists.

Ciudad del Este (city in Paraguay)

Pluses

  • Very cheap to stay in, eat out, everything really.
  • Easy access to Foz do Iguaçu, just by crossing the bridge from where you can catch a bus to the falls.
  • Very crowded streets, full of trading locals which give you the opportunity to discover the daily life and environment around Paraguayan people live in.
  • Experiencing amazing, very lively vibrant city, a bit of a smuggling one, with busy streets packed with loads of stands. Well known for its cheap electronic equipment.
  • Markets rich of fruits and vegetables at very low prices.
  • Loads of cheap street food stands where you can grab a lunch for as little as 1$.
  • Extremely cheap accommodation.
  • Atmosphere on the streets.
  • Least touristic one on our list.
  • Very friendly people, very chatty, helpful, easy to interact with, more open to travelers.
  • Definitely one of my favorite places in South America.

Minuses

  • The only minus, I found, is an extra time you need to get to Foz de Iguazu to catch a bus to the falls. Having said that, you can get a taxi at a very cheap price to take you to the bus stop in Brazil.

Verdict

Of course, I will leave the choice to you. However, if I had to visit it not having much time, I would stop in Paraguay (Ciudad del Este), and from there I would travel to the Argentinian side to see it. For whats it worth, whatever side you will pick, you will be blown away by the magnificent diverse nature of the area and the beauty of this violently falling waters.

Day tour around Sophia

  Everyone of us, or at least most, do some itinerary before traveling. Its is always a significant question on the length of stay in each place, especially for a first-time visitors. Capital, as usually the biggest city in the country, is no estrange to that doubt. Many of them in Europe vary from Barcelona, where you can stay for weeks, to smaller ones, where you can discover the place in just even less than few days and feel satisfy. Good internet research always help to plan your trip better. And here I come with my blog post to answer that questions about one capital in Balkans.

So where are we this time? Sophia, a capital of Bulgaria, a magnificent, and massively underrated (!), country with stunning mountain range Vitosha, that is a volcanic mountain massif on the outskirts of the capital, visible literally all around from the city. Vitosha is one of the symbols of this city and the closest site for hiking and skiing. Thought, when it comes to Sofia, and as much as I loved Bulgaria myself, I can not say that capital itself offers a lot. One day is all you need to discover the place. I would even suggest going to see Rila Monastery in the morning and do the sight-seen after. All could be done in one day. All the major attractions are very close by, almost all located on one street. If you are staying in the city center area, you can start your tour from Ancient Complex Serdica, site situated just above the Serdika metro station, that displays the remains of the Roman city.

There is also a History Museum to see. Just 2 mins away you can see a Rotonda st. George, The Church of St George is an Early Christian red brick rotunda that is considered the oldest building in Sofia.

Now heading forward on pl. Knyaz Aleksandar, you can visit Ethnographic Museum (showcasing folk costumes & regional art & artifacts) and Russian Church. A bit further, on a left hand side, you can visit a stunning Alexander Nevski Cathedral. Built in Neo-Byzantine style serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria, and it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of the symbols of the Sofia and a primary tourist attraction. Heading more towards Crystal Palace, you can see on the way a building of a National Assembly.

Close by National Stadium, called Vasil Levski, could be an a attraction too, but to be honest, can be skipped. At the end I would suggest adding a National Palace of Culture, but its located a bit far away. However, can be easily reached by trolley line 1,2,5,8 and 9 just from the Crystal Palace.

This is a main itinerary for Sophia city center. Please keep in your mind that Rila Monastery is a must see place too, so if you want to spend one day around capital, please do add an extra day to see this stunning monastery hidden in a mountains.

Sticky drops of freshment, Skopje as Ive seen

 The stream of thoughts can probably come to loads of first time “Skopje arriver`s” minds. I guess mine was one of them. This small-sized capital of Macedonia creates an easy and quick access to the city center, so the surrounding architecture does strikes you right away! It can fool you so quickly, maybe even laugh at you a bit, with the mirror reflection you may give it back. The richness of almost overdone governments buildings can make you feel a bit striped off. You may be experiencing thinking that you haven’t seen quiet a capital like this before. What history did not leave, you can always bring back, or can you really? The design of, so called, project Skopje 2014 completely transformed the way Skopje city center looks like today. There are loads of stories, loads of reasons behind this “clearly original” change, saying in plainest language possible. Big money got involved too. And there is that sour question at the end of your tong: who is this really for? Tourists, as in the first place? It’s not a secret that it is one of the fastest, more and more popular, and reachable growing industry. How about the people? How do they find them self around? And yet we still have a government responsible for the project. Yes! A show off, or the way to stand out to bust the tourism. You really have to get to the bottom of all this. The path trough, almost baroque kitsch like drooping richness of, Skopje may leave you with loads of questions. Finding out more about point of view of locals may lead to a general disappointment, of yet again, showcase of a thick unbreakable money/power line between poor and rich.

 This, once plain, maze of Europe became a place for many neo-classic buildings and bridges along the river. Perhaps too white, too clean to fake you. Structures may turn out too difficult to help you to get the vibe of travelling in the past. Yet, you can’t really say they are not impressive. Shall we be grateful Macedonia is showing us how newly done acropolis, possibly, looked like for Greeks back in the days? Perhaps. Could be a plus. It can be left only for an individual opinion. But the feeling of fakery is still a bit present. The project has two main aims: to draw in more tourists and to try to reclaim aspects of the country’s history from neighborhood Greece, appealing to the patriotism of many ethnic Macedonians. Walking by the rich bronze statues full of bridges definitely wont make your eye sore. You gladly will take your camera to photograph the things around. You will see, you will capture and then you will start to think. How? I do not see any problem investing in tourism. I do adore Moroccan king for doing so. So do Moroccans, as I spoke with many of them. Yet, the King do it differently. He want to keep the culture present, but just making the country more accessible, safe and inviting. But here we have a bit different situation.

We are discussing a country  where 21.5% of the population live below poverty line with minimal wage at 231 Euros. Macedonia is also very vulnerable to economic developments in Europe, with a strong banking and trade ties and dependent on regional integration and progress toward EU membership for continued economic growth. And yet, on another hand we have a government spending loads of public founds. It been known that cost lay somewhere between €200-€500m (depending on who you talk to) and may have resulted in drop in minimal wage. Than we have a beautiful new buildings and statues. Quiet two opposite situations that divided the nations. The project, known as Skopje 2014, instigated by prime minister Nikola Gruevski, is just as questionable and arguably as diverse as it was when first announced.

  Many Macedonians are questioning the scheme’s vast public expense – not to mention its aesthetic qualities. We have also this sticky problem of complete ignorance towards a very large Muslim community, religion and culture that, sadly, did not get to participate in the project. I visited Skopje in March 2017. Being around city center area for few days, I witness anti-government demonstrations on a daily base. Thought, peaceful, yet shouting for attention a lot.  But there’s no doubting it has put the city on the tourist map. 

  Foreign visitors used to come to Skopje primarily to wander around the beautiful Old Bazaar district, with its alleys, mosques and old hilltop fort. But now they can go in less than five minutes from drinking a Turkish coffee among people and architecture that wouldn’t be out-of-place in a traditional city of the Middle East, to being surrounded by faux-classical European architecture and imagery. Maybe not a bad thing. Diversity. Something for us. 

 So where this all bring us, tourist, the recipients of the project? I hope very close to Skopje. You have to remember that it is one of the most amazing countries in Europe, with magnificent landscape, mountain ranges, canyons (Matka Canyon) and lakes. All that comes at a very affordable price. Public transport is good and very cheap. People are very friendly and possible to interact to in English. Food is absolutely a heaven with a kebab to die for! So yes! Weather the project of 2014 worked or not, we will have to leave it for individual opinion. I think even for the one who are not so keen on it, Macedonia will not be disappointing in any single way. I absolutely loved my time in this Balkan country. I’ve met loads of warm people, and I saw a beauty of the landscape. I am satisfy, happy and richer than the newly build Skopje surrounded architecture.

Finding some peace in Pokhara

 Arriving, even trough a tiny roads between Himalayas and lively rivers, from a busy streets of Kathmandu to a calm and peaceful Pokhara almost seems like a way to nirvana. You can find there everything what`s missing from the capital. Not overcrowded streets are surrounded by a beautiful mountain range with deadly Annapurna looking at you from every single corner, yet seems like she gives your mind a great piece of rest.

  Pokhara is located 200 kilometers west of the capital. Could be a surprised fact to learn that by occupying an area of 464.24 km2 this city stands as larger than Kathmandu, 18 times larger than Lalitpur and 2.5 times larger than Bharatpur. Because of its popularity and it​s touristic nature, as of many available activities to choose from, this area is packed with hotels, hostel, restaurants, travel agencies, and anything visitors really need. It’s well known mostly as a gateway to the Annapurna Circuit, a popular trail in the Himalayas to hike. However, when it comes to this city, it is not only about the highest mountain range in the world. Pokhara`s landscape consist of a beautiful and the second largest lake of Nepal, called Phewa, with clear green waters that is an absolutely stunning thing to enjoy. On a sunny day when the sky is clear, you can even see surrounded range as a reflection on a smooth surface of the lake. Inviting waters, apart from being the main resource for fishing, offers load of activities from kayaking to just lazy ride on the boat through the lake. Or how about just simple walk around where you can sit and enjoy at one of restaurants, cafes or smoothie making stands. That could be an option as well, isn’t it? This seems like a popular thing to do, as there are always loads of tourists along with locals around the shore too.

Cycling around the area, even up to the top of the Sarangkot, seems like a very popular activity. Alternatively, you can hire a scooter or motorbike to discover the area a bit further and see more lakes, as name “Pokhara” means the valley of the lakes itself, derived from “Pokhari” which literally means a lake. There are eight of them in total. Apart from the most popular inside the valley, previously mentioned Phewa, others are: Begnas, Rupa, Maidi, Khaste, Gunde, Dipang and Kamal Pokhari. Phewa, Begnas and Rupa are definitely three lakes worth visiting. Apart from beautiful calm surface of them, surely is wort experiencing a wilder nature of waters as rivers and waterfalls, which Pokara is famous for. The Seti River is much popular among the tourists. It runs through deep channels in the conglomerate rocks from Bagar to Sita Paila, and in some places it flows through the narrow gorge. Going through by the river sides below the hills, we can see several beautiful and dashing waters falling downhill and finally flowing to the rivers. You can even enjoy them just by passing the highway to Baglung that consist few of them on the way. The city itself also has a beautiful waterfall, and it is known as Davis Fall (In Nepali: Patale chango).

It truly is a breath-taking experience just looking at the Davis Fall in Chorrepatan. The water flowing in this fall comes from Fewa lake, and the fall is worth visiting during the rainy seasons as it possesses its maximum velocity. But lets not get stuck there for too long, there is way more to see around. Absolutely magnificent cave is just two minutes walk from there. Basically the whole Pokhara valley is rich in cave system, and it almost seems like a vision of a city hidden under the ground. Mahendra Cave, for example, is located in the city of Pokhara and can be easily accessed by the visitors in just walking distance (few kilometers), taxi ride or just by public buses. It is named after the late king Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev. The cave itself is amazing and you can witness many natural shapes and images of the various Hindu gods and goddesses on the stone made of the lime. Literally just a ten minutes walk from this cave there lies another one named the Bat Cave. In Nepali language it is also called Chameri Gufa. You can guess correctly who residence inside, the name suggests it well. It is called after the habitats of the bats over the cave’s wall and the ceilings. Above all caves you can find a dense forest with a stream flows, ending as a sparkling waterfall tumbling into a mysteriously hidden world of darkness. In total Pokhara is renowned for ten mystical caves. Nevertheless, right now, only nine of the caves can be visited as the Eastern Power Station cave has been badly damaged and buried, as it is under a huge landslide, leaving its beauty only for few lucky one.

  Near by Sarangkot hill is a must hike place as well. It is very popular to cycle or just walk all the way up, however, bus, taxi and scooter is an option too. Once there, you can enjoy absolutely outstanding panorama of the surrounded valley underneath and the magnificent view of the mountains. In to the northern direction we can see Dhaulagiri in the far west. Annapurna range is visible when the weather is clear on the same side. On the southern direction the village overlooks the city of Pokhara and its lake on the north-western outskirts of the city. Sarangkot is only 5 km from lake side, Pokhara, and is the highest view-point for a sunrise at just 1592 m high, but the temperature drops already 5 degrees cooler than the city. The hill can be done easily by 45 minutes car ride to the top from Pokhara and then 45 minutes hike up to the main view-point. Many tourists come to Sarangkot for sunrise view and go back after few hours, but it will be good if you will get a chance to stay there for one night and enjoy the way city light outshine from there. Paragliding is a very popular activity that can be done from that area too. You can book that at one of many agents in Pokhara, or one at the top. 

Paragliding is a good way to start with when it comes to more adventurous side of this area. The city offers everything from ultralight flying, skydiving and ziplining to a bungee jumping, developing a complete holiday package for a perfect vacation to all kind of tourists. But there is a last, but not least, thing worth mentioning. Remember to also visit the old side of the city where you will be able to experience and feel cultural side of Nepal along with all old temples, statues and buildings around. Old Town is a real treat for the people who love to discover a new place from its roots and history. Best explored on foot, Old Town in Pokhara offers an unmatched view of the new parts of the city in the morning, before the traffic and daily chores take over the landscape. Once there, you will come across a marketplace selling locally produced items; Bhimsen Temple, an old shrine dedicated to the Newari god of trade and commerce with Bindhya Basini Temple, dedicated to goddess Durga. You can find a good range of delicious street food too. Its is a place to observe locals on a daily life too, getting on their daily routine. Thought, not so overcrowded as Kathmandu, you will meet loads of Nepalese to chat to, talk to. You wont be disappointed with the way they will interact towards you.

  At the end I would like to mention that I arrived to Pokhara from Kathmandu, where I was during the earthquake. I spend 48 hours at the ground, sleepless, wet, tired. I did not only found a peace, but a shelter. I felt safe there, as aftershocks were hardly noticeable, and the whole city did not get damaged as capital. It will always stay as a very special place for me. But for you guys, I think it enough to know that it is a magical, adventurous place you just can not miss while in Nepal!

Postcard from Bosnia and Herzegovina

  Following the footsteps of our one and only Mother Nature, it’s clearly quiet significant that the Balkans are the quintessence of her arty work in Europe. This area notably stands out with their beautifully turquoise colored rivers, that you just want jump in to, amazing high range of mountains and a clear Adriatic Sea coast. What more would you wish for. The locals surly are aware of the beautiful land, they are very fortunate to live on, mentioning it on every possible occasion. I personally left my heart in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Rich culture, spread by the different nations, history and still fresh feel of shadow of the violent war from 90s participate in the way Bosnia and Herzegovina looks like today. Thought most of the cities, like Sarajevo, has been almost fully rebuild, so well that you can hardly notice sights of any fights, the memories are still held in minds of most of the people who got to witness the horror of these dark days. Yet, locals are happy nova days cherishing every moment, enjoying the daily life, sharing a smile.  It seems for me that architects had an easy job creating what you can call today’s urban panorama trough all the centuries. Designing anything from houses, town halls, churches to mosques could just possibly not go wrong in such a magnificent environment. It almost feel like the nature already did most of the work here. The history also made Bosnia and Herzegovina very unique. The influence of the different religions could be spot on every street in every town. The “fantasy” medieval castles and fortresses proudly stands next to the Ottoman influenced architecture. It looks like a chest board with the difference that all black and white squares, trough some historical conflicts, became to an acceptance, unity, tolerance and friendship? Is it too early to use the last world? No…..not in Bosnia and Herzegovina and that’s why I love it.

  Cities and towns are not to busy, not to crowded, people seems less stressed and rushed than western civilization. Balkans are still very undiscovered and untouched by mass tourism.sarajevo2.jpg This fact makes it easy to find a peacefulness literally just around the corner. 10 minutes drive from Sarajevo already can bring you to the stunning river side, lake or forest where’s nobody around, just you and the nature. It gives you also the opportunity to listen to the most noncommercial music in the world….the music of nature. Birds, waters, even wind can enhance your experience around this remarkable landscape.

Thought mentioning the virginity of this part of the Europe, please note that accommodation can be found easily in most of the places in Bosnia. The infrastructure works well too, makes it accessible from every neighborhood  country or just between domestic towns. Hostels are cute, nice, very clean and affordable even for a budget backpacker. Eating out, whether it is a traditional meal or just a good old pizza, wont make any difference from own cooking as of taste and price.  ss.jpgMerchants are very friendly and not pushy whatsoever, they really don’t try to just make money of you. They will be around to help, but also will leave you in peace, giving you some space. That`s makes the experience of walking in old towns nicer. Yet, there is so many cute things from tea pots, glasses, dishes to cloths, so you will be back to your hotel with a full bag. Why not, if you can, it really is 3 times cheaper than in Western Europe, not even mentioning the uniqueness of the staff there. I personally had to thrown away few pairs of jeans and shoes to make a space for the things I purchased there. Well worth it!DSC_0706

Most of the people speak a very good English, the rest can communicate well too. This fact is very important in making connections with locals. You can hear loads of stories about the war that can give you a very good image if these past years. Though, you can clearly see that people moved on, yet they do well remember those bloody, violent, dark days that took so many lives. People went trough a lot, seen a lot and experienced. Hard to believe that western countries turned their back on. Though past shows very well that less resource less help you can get. History is the worst teacher ever, I got to know.

  But what war cannon take is the beauty of the land. Clearly Bosnia and Herzegovina got the most outstanding and most pretty rivers, lakes and hills in this part of the world. What else should I add to convince you to visit this country? I hope nothing. Be happy, appreciate what you have, respect others, travel, if you can, and visit this stunning country that will not disappoint you in any way.