“Argentina has the waterfalls but Brazil has the balcony”. Choosing a gateway to see Iguazu Falls in Paraguay/Brazil/Argentina

Wouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone the fact that Iguazu Falls are clearly the most known waterfalls in South America, and probably in the rest of the world. Easily and proudly competitive with Niagara Falls. Having seen “Latino” one, I can confidently say that Iguazu stand out and outshine as way more impressive. They are taller than Canadian one, twice as wide and are one of the greatest natural wonders of the world with the area around marked as the UNESCO World Heritage. Iguaçu Falls (Portuguese: Cataratas do Iguaçu, Spanish: Cataratas del Iguazú, Tupi: Y Ûasu “big water”) are situated near the border of Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. Water falls of the Iguazu River that rises near the city of Curitiba, on the border of the Argentinan province of Misiones and the Brazilian state of Paraná. The river, for most of its course,  flows through Brazil, however, most of the falls are on the Argentine side. They creates a natural water border between those countries and they are the largest waterfalls system in the world (275 waterfalls). The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu.  Below its confluence with the San Antonio River, the river forms the boundary between Argentina and Brazil. Falls are set among National Parks, which consist of subtropical rain-forests that are home to hundreds of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna.

   The falls are very well known for every backpacker traveling through the continent or just around Brazil, Argentina or Paraguay, marking a very important dot on their map. There are 2 most popular gateways to see those magnificent, violent and impressively big waters. First one is a Brazilian city called Foz do Iguaçu. Second, Argentinian town  named Puerto Iguazú. Close by Ciudad del Este, in Paraguay, that is separated from Brazilian town just by the bridge Puente de la Amistad (Friendship Bridge), creates also an easy way to reach our destination. I have seen all three of them, so If you’re are in a rush, and can pick just one location, you may want to have a look at some comparisons below. I will also write briefly about Argentinian and Brazilian side of the waterfalls to help you pick one, if you can not see both side which, in my opinion, is ideal, but not always a case for everyone.

Iguazu falls from Brazilian side

  • Three possible sided to experience the falls: from the top, from the bottom (Devil’s Throat, please take a waterproof jacket!) and by boat.
  • You can opt for a helicopter ride (only available on the Brazilian side) that cost around 100$.
  • This side offers a bus service connecting the falls with other activities. That service runs from the entrance to the end of the park every 10 minutes in both directions.
  • You’ll get to see the entire panorama of cascades, this view cannot be duplicated on the Argentine side.
  • Better Viewpoints, but There’s really only a couple different of them.
  • Really cool bird park just outside the gates of the Brazilian National Park entrance.
  • As of a smaller are of the park, can be done in half of the day.
  • Entrance ticket is cheaper.

Iguazu falls from Argentinian side

  • Iguazú National Park is much bigger than its Brazilian counterpart, with more trails to walk along and some that lead you right into the open water. You’ll need at least a full day (or two) to see it all and walk all of its trails.
  • Boat trips available too.
  • The Garganta del Diablo, bridge above the falls, literally swallows you up as you walk towards the end. It is probaby the most impressive viewpoint where you appreciate the absolute enormity and power of the falls. The bridge extends all the way to the edge of the falls, as tons of water plunge aggressively into the far distance.
  • Available zip line.
  • You can get right on top of the waterfall, not exactly possible on Brazilian side.
  • On the Argentine side of the park there’s a small train leaving about every half an hour from near the entrance going all the way to the beginning of the trail to the Garganta del Diablo.
  • There are many more options on the Argentine side, and that is the side where you would want to spend more time.
  • 20% falling on the Brazilian side and an impressive 80% in Argentina

The biggest difference, in my opinion, between Argentina and Brazil was that in Argentina you can experience falls looking at them right down, like inside the waterfalls, while in Brazil you have the impression of standing kind of under the waterfalls. Two totally different thing that are possible only on each side. Very difficult to compare.

Foz do Iguaçu (city in Brazil)

Pluses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is a city, and that gives you the opportunity to stuck up on anything you may be missing.
  • The prices around are not to high, and probably close by Ciudad del Este participate in this fact too.
  • There are few big discount shops around for a budget backpackers. Cheap street food stand can be easily found all around.
  • Bus, that goes to the falls, is located in the city center very close to the bus station.
  • Zoo to visit.
  • More hotels, restaurants, and other amenities.
  • Not as touristic as Puerto Iguazú.

Minuses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is probably the worst city I have stayed in while traveling around South America.
  • Main bus station, that connect cities, is located far away from the center, which makes it difficult to just walk to your accommodation
  • Not many things to do around.
  • Not the friendliest people I have met.

Puerto Iguazú (town in Argentina)

Pluses

  • Pleasant, safe, quiet and cute little town, so It is easy to find your way around.
  • Closest to Argentinian side of the falls.
  • Loads of travelers around to meet.
  • People seems more friendly than on Brazilian side.

Minuses

  • Very expensive prices, as generally in Argentina.
  • Not many cash machines around, and some do not accept your cards.
  • Nothing really to do in the town.
  • Expensive restaurants, set for tourists.

Ciudad del Este (city in Paraguay)

Pluses

  • Very cheap to stay in, eat out, everything really.
  • Easy access to Foz do Iguaçu, just crossing the bridge from where you can catch a bus to the falls.
  • Very crowded streets, full of trading locals which give you the opportunity to discover locals daily life and environment around they live in.
  • Experiencing amazing, very lively vibrant city, a bit of a smuggling one, with busy streets packed with loads of stands. Well known for its cheap electronics equipment.
  • Markets rich of fruits and vegetables at very low prices.
  • Loads of cheap street food stands where you can grab a lunch for as little as 1$.
  • Extremely cheap accommodation.
  • Atmosphere on the streets.
  • Least touristic one on our list.
  • Very friendly people, very chatty, helpful, easy to interact with, more open to travelers.
  • Definitely one of my favorite places in South America.

Minuses

  • The only minus I found is an extra time you need to get to Foz de Iguazu to catch a bus to the falls. Having said that, you can get a taxi at a very cheap price to take you to the bus stop in Brazil.

Verdict

Of course, I will leave the choice to you. However, if I had to do it again, not having much time, I would stop in Paraguay (Ciudad del Este), and from there I would travel to the Argentinian side to see it. For whats it worth, whatever side you will pick, you will be blown away by the magnificent diverse nature of the area and the beauty of this violently falling waters.

Extra shot of adrenaline at the Dead Road in Bolivia

Name “Dead Road” definitely does not come in a first place to any mind as a casual attraction. Originally named Yungas Road became well-known as a silent killer of thousands. Famous for being most dangerous road in the world that contributed to many deaths of drivers in the past and some cyclists in recent years. All as a result of how and where the road has been constructed. A combination of a single track road, 900m high cliffs, rainy weather, limited visibility, rockfalls, waterfalls and lack of guardrails, participate in all death. Luckily and finally, Yungas road was modernized to include two driving lanes, asphalt pavement, drainage systems and guardrails. New road has been opened in 2009, as an alternative of a must choice, replacing the dangerous 64km stretch. All traffic being diverted to the new road. I am really glad motorists can now travel from La Paz to Coroico without fearing the journey may be their last. New road, apart that has already saved hundreds of life, left Bolivia also with one of the coolest, adrenaline giving and very adventurous tourist attraction in this country. People from all around the world visit this part of Bolivia to cycle down trough the original way. I did too.ddfdfdfd

Some statistics to give you the idea

“200 to 300 estimated death drivers yearly along Yungas Road and as late as 1994 there were cars falling over the edge at a rate of one every two weeks.”

“One of Bolivia’s most tragic road accidents happened on July 24th 1983 when an overcrowded bus veered off the side of the road and into a canyon killing more than 100 passengers.”

“Even with these improved conditions, Yungas Road shows no mercy. Nowadays, the death toll is limited to local workers and daredevil backpackers still using the infamous road. It is believed that more than 22 cyclists have lost their lives on Bolivia’s “Death Road” since 1998.”20160202_101011

To do or not to do

The answer for me is definitely YES TO DO. I wasn’t thinking even for a minute whether I should do it or not. It was definitely one of the coolest thing I did in South America. However, it really is not for everyone. Most agencies will not be very honest with you, as they just want loads of people to sign for it for the profit. There is no limit of age, fitness etc, but since I have done it, I can set some average requirements. Here they are:

  • Dead Road is suitable from very confident beginners to, of course, experts, average fitness and above. In particular for everyone above 16, but mostly done by younger group of people, usually at the age gap of 20-30. I did have two people at the age of 50-60 in my group. One of them was very fit and did it well, the other was always last and we had to wait for him. Having said that, our group was one of the fastest, starting last, finishing first, so I am sure it can be done by not perfectly fit people, but maybe get some advice on best company to go with, if that’s the case for you.
  • Most of the road is very stony and dusty. The whole road is 64 km long, and thought you mostly going downhill, you have to be a confident cyclist with some experience to keep up with the group.
  • You have to be very very careful, you need a perfect eyesight. The whole road is mostly thin and going via many waterfalls. Mentioning good eyesight meant to warn you that at the beginning road is extremely foggy, and it is difficult to navigate. Waterfalls are very tricky, as the group do not stop to pass them, you will go trough them at your max speed.20160202_122240
  • Keep in your mind that it is pretty much “fast and furious” activity. You do not have a choice, but just go very fast, well…at least my group was fast. So think twice if you want to do this. Trust me, I felt on my head, destroying the helmet, having an open wound on my left elbow, that got swollen as well, yet I still had 30 kilometers to go….gosh that was painful. Another guy broke his leg too.
  • Cycling will last 5 hours, at high performance. Road is approximate Downhill: 90% (one section contains a few small uphills). You have to be ready for sore hands.
  • The drop in altitude means travelers experience both chilly conditions in the Altiplano highlands and hot humid conditions in the rain-forests below. Your body needs to be ready for it. Highly not recommended for people, that already feeling light-headed at the high of 2000m.

Once the answer is yes

  • Even that you will be provided with food and water, take an extra bottle with you. You will start in very cold environment, but once half way trough, you will be surrounded by tropical hot weather, and that`s the time when your body will need some extra hydration, so you will drink loads at the end.
  • Take a good waterproof jacket, as usually raining near the top.
  • As the temperature will be going up, proportionally to the distance cycled downhill, have something under to wear after, preferably with long sleeve, unless you will be provided with elbow protection.20160202_094517
  • Take maybe old cloths. I thrown away my shoes after.
  • Have some wet tissues, your face will be constantly covered with mud.
  • Lucky you if you own GoPro, you can record the whole way, attaching your camera to the bike or helmet.
  • Do not book you trip if you just landed in La Paz. You body needs few day to adapt to the altitude. Yungas Road climbs to around 4,650 meters, from where you will start.
  • Check the weather for the next day. No worries, you can book a trip just one day before, even before 17.00 pm. The bottom line is not to rain that day!
  • Have a phone in your pocket. Thought you will have just quick breaks, you will have few chances to take some photos of this absolutely outstanding landscape and scenery.
  • Remember! 21 cyclists and 5 guides have died since the road had been opened for mountain bike trips. It might not be the most dangerous road in the world anymore, but it is still the Death Road. Don`t be to cocky on the road.
  • Most likely your agency will not cover the entrance fee for riding a bike. it is 50 Bs now – 25 Bs at the start and 25 Bs at the end of the road.
  • You really should be covered with medical insurance for this!20160202_122003

Prices and booking

Dead Road is usually done, from La Paz, the city in Bolivia. There are loads of agencies to provide you with their service, especially around city center area. Every single hostel and most hotels can book you in too. It really isn’t a problem to buy this trip. It is relatively cheap. Prices depend on agency, and mostly the kind of the bike, you will be provided with. It will be between 50-100$, as of 2016. I rented the worst bike, and I think being cheap about the bicycle is not the best idea. Get a double suspension one and from a good agency. Never go with Luna Tours agency (see photos above to recognize uniform and logo). I went with them and was promised to be provided with photos and movies of use while cycling. They did film a lot, took loads of photos, and at the end agency provided us with CDs, where all media suppose to be. After few moths, when I came back home exited to show movies to my sister and her kids (to show how cool is their aunty), I discovered that there is no photos or movies of us!!!  Just old movies to promote agency. I was extremely disappointed and angry, I have only few photos from my phone. DSC_0830.jpg

Brief overlook of the day trip to do the Dead Road

  • My meeting point was at the cafe in La Paz at 7.00 am, where we had a breakfast, and we briefly discussed the plan for next 10 hours. Please note that some agencies can pick you from the hotel.fdf.jpg
  • At 8.00 am our bikes got uploaded to the top of the van, we sat in, and we went off from La Paz, which is at a height of 3,600 meters (11,810 feet), to the foot of the Andes Mountains towards the summit which was at 4,700 m.
  • Approx at 10.00 am we arrived at the starting point of La Cumbre Pass. We then proceed to get the specialized equipment for each of us. The guides make recognition of our teams. We were also explained of all the rules at the road, how to sign with your hand, and what our schedule will be.
  • We were fitted into our gear that was: a jacket, pants with knee pads to put under, gloves, and a full-face helmet. Then we tested our mountain bikes: breaks and sit high. Our guide rechecked all again to make sure all is safe and we went off.
  • Starting the adventure at around 11.00 am.
  • First 20 kilometers is via new asphalt road to Coroico. Actual Dead Road will start after that length. In this bit we can get used to the bikes and enjoy the road before difficult part.
  • Quick break for a snack before getting in to actual Yungas Road.
  • Dirt road begins at a height of 2,700 meters (2,953 feet) above sea level. In the beginning of the Bolivian jungle, exactly where the paved road ends, begins the most dangerous road in the world.
  • Keep cycling through rivers, waterfalls, along with the wide variety of beautiful flora and fauna with few breaks to keep the team together.
  • At 15.00 finishing and arriving at the bridge, congratulating each other. At the end of the road, you will get a well deserved beer or coke and a t-shirt. I picked coke…hmmm, I must to have being in shock after my fall :D.
  • After a little rest heading off for a well deserved dinner with swimming pool on the side and showers to refresh.
  • At approx 16.30-17.00 heading back to La Paz, arriving at around 18.30-19.00.

Backpacking South America, my route, total cost and few tips

It took me 4 months to save money and plan my backpacking trip around South America. Being busy earning cash for my travel, I was also occupied thinking about packing, researching visas issues, planning my route and budget. It really is not so complicated, but it was my first backpacking trip in my life, and I did not have any friends that done it before, who could help me with some tips, to share some experience. I had to heavily rely on internet info and other blogs pots to prepare. Yet, I still think there is not that much info about it. Here, I will share with you some info about places, I have visited, how I was getting from A to B, my budget, packing and some other tips.

Planning your route 

I have to admit that I am very proud of my path. I have visited all major attractions (like Iguazu Falls, Atacama Desert, Salar de Uyuni, Machu Picchu, Titicaca Lake, Dead Road), and I stayed in really amazing places. The only thing I haven’t seen was Angels Falls, as my plane from Bogotá to Caracas, in Venezuela, got cancelled, so I decided just to skip this one. But Now, I am thinking that I shouldn’t. Venezuela is truly beautiful, and you can see Amazon from there as well. Basically, I did not plan my whole way around SA back home. I did only think that I will try to visit all countries on this continent and I set major things I want to see, then I was building my expected way around these places. I think I did well at the end, as I saw 9 countries in total. I booked my hostels/hotels only in 3 first locations, and I planed my route only in the country I started from, Brazil. Then after everything was natural, I was planning my way on weekly basis, changing my mind from time to time. Everything turned out pretty well, and I do highly recommend to fallow my way, but not staying as long in Florianopolis, Santiago and Montanita, as you can add some extra locations to your trip, in Paraguay for example, or just adding Venezuela at the end. I think 6 days is an absolute maximum to stay in one place.

Please note, that real-life vikitravel can be found in every hostel`s kitchen, since there is loads of other backpackers to share their experience and recommend great places to see. Always worth listen and talking to them!

Brazil: Sao Paulo (3 nights) – Florianopolis (8 nights) – Foz do Iguaçu (4 nights) – Paraguay: Ciudad del Este (1 day) – Argentina: Buenos Aires (6 nights) – Uruguay: Colonia del Sacramento (1 day) – Argentina: Mendoza (2 nights) – Chile: Santiago (11 nights) – Valparaiso (1 day)-Vina del Mar (1 day) – San Pedro de Atacama (6 nights) – Bolivia:– 3 days trip via desert from San Pedro to Uyuni – Uyuni (3 nights) – Potosi (6 nights) – Sucre (6 nigts) – Cochabamba (3 nights) – La Paz (4 nights) – Copacabana (2 nights) – Peru: Puno (3 nights) – Cuzco (4 nights) – Aquas Qalientes, Machu Picchu ( 1 night) – Cuzco (2 nights) – Lima (3 nights) – Mancora (6 nights) – Ecuador: Guayaquil (1 night) – Montanita (10 nights) – Banos (4 nights) – Quito (3 nights) – Colombia: Cali (6 nights) – Bogota (7 nights).

Transport

I traveled around South America only by bus. Just once I used a ferry from Buenos Aires to Uruguay. There are loads of companies to choose from in every single country, offering different comfort, except in Bolivia, from normal to fully recline chairs with hot meals. Mostly possible to book online in advance, again, except in Bolivia. Flying is very expensive and a bit pointless while backpacking. Train is an option too, especially now is getting more and more popular, but since I have not used it even once, I can not advise you on this service. I found this blog to be very useful, for people, that want to travel by train. For bus prices in each country you can have a look here. Regarding buses, they are very comfortable, except Bolivia (most amazing country anyway), and mostly affordable, except Argentina, Brazil and Chile.

I am afraid missing bags from the storage space under the bus are very common, thought nothing like that happened to me, other travelers, I have met, experienced it. There is nothing you can do about it, just hope that it wont happened to you. Always keep all valuable stuff in a small bag pack with you in the bus, try not to have expensive gear, clothes and shoes, not to miss it too much, just in case.

Border crossing

As a Polish nation, I do not need any visa for any country in South America. There is no fee to pay too, not even a tax (that you pay sometimes in Central America). That is for most of the European countries, even England, Germany and France. Border crossing was always nice and smooth for me, with no any hassle, trouble or any major issues. Actually, border personnel was always extra nice and very interested in me, probably due the fact that not so many polish travel in that part of the world. Blond hair and green eyes helped too, I guess. Just queuing for the stamp out/stamp in was annoying sometimes (especially at night). Please note that basic Spanish is essential, as they may ask where are you going to stay, or what is your occupation. It can be also a great time to eat, as there is always loads of food stands around to choose from (not between Argentina-Chile). Bus driver always wait for everyone and count them to be sure all are in, before continuing journey, unless he doesn’t give a damn about it..nah joking, usually he does. Don`t try to smuggle anything, sniffing dogs are present at every border, and in Colombia, even on any route to stop the bus and search bags and passengers.  Thought, I did not have any problems at the border, I’ve heard some stories from male travelers that were experiencing some problems, or being asked to pay a fee, that, of course, wasn’t required.

Budget

For the 4 months of traveling, excluding flying to this continent from Europe, I have spent 5.800-6.000$, that including everything, staying 70% of the time in hostels, rest in hotels, all the bus travel, food, trips, activities, tickets, parties, just excluding flying to this continent from Europe. Please keep checking fly4free website for cheap deal on flights to South America, I bought mine from Belgium to Sao Paulo in Brazil with return for 600$, but can get even cheaper than that. Here is my other blog post, where I look in to prices of each country with estimated daily budget.

Health insurance

Absolutely essential and one of the most important things before traveling. Can be easily purchase online, and is very affordable. You can buy it just day before your departure, and the price will be still the same. If you are not planning anything like surfing, winter-sports, just buy the cheapest one to cover medical bills. Otherwise, if you have some crazy plans, read what your insurance will cover, trust me, I am a layer. No point to buy an extra option for electronic losses (phones, tablets, laptops..etc), unless of course it is a very good and expensive policy. My friend had her staff covered, and after being theft from her expensive Nikon camera, got 35$ as of insurance for it! Medical cover is the most essential one for a backpacker. I bought mine for around 100$ for 6 months of my travel.

Safety

Just go. Safety is your last thing to worry about before back packing. People are mostly travel alone now anyway, especially in South America. It is a very safe place, even for solo females, like myself. Just be intelligent and don’t act stupidly (walking alone at night, going out with strangers….etc).

Apps

Maps.me is the most important application. Please don’t take a fancy phone with you, unless you can afford losing it, but good smartphone that runs this app smoothly is essential. Old Samsung s series are probably the best. I say it, as I was robbed in Chile, losing my camera, tablet and good glasses, so I experienced it myself. Coming back to maps.me, it is an application that allow you to store and later use maps without wifi. You will be even able to use navigation that will show you your location and directions (no wifi needed, as it runs on GPS). I have to say, I was impresses, as GPS was working for me even high in Bolivian mountains, just almost everywhere, and always in cities and town. Apart from street names, there are almost all hostels, hotels, shops, places of interest, all public offices (post office, police, etc). You gonna use it a lot, like I did. App is free of charge.

Other app I used was booking.com, but please note, booking in advance is more expensive than just good old way of turning at the hostel doors and checking in.

Flickr app is great too. It upload all your photos from your phone automatically (once connected to the internet, just turning the app on), so you are avoiding losing them with your phone. Free app again, but just need to create an account (that is free too).

Kindle/ebook/app to read as ebooks is essential for every book lover, like myself.

Packing

Hmm, it is a very good question. I can just give you a few tips, I found to be useful during all my backpacking trips:

  • Less is more. First and most important. Do not take much with you, take half what you are planning in the first place. Clothes are very cheap in South America, especially in Bolivia and Colombia, and by buying them you are getting an amazing souvenir too. Something special in your wardrobe, trust me. I had an umbrella, but haven’t used it even once, so pointless to take. Shoes: funny story, as planning loads of hiking, especially in Bolivia and Peru, I bought and took very expensive Timberlands-throw them to the bin already in Brazil and was just wearing converse (for all my hiking, at the beach, on snow, salt, swamps, deserts….). 2 pairs are max to take.
  • Good light waterproof jacket and cover for backpack is a must. Here, I really love The North Face jackets, they just wont let you get wet!!
  • For girls: hairdryer is not needed, but you may want to use it in Bolivia sometimes, as of a cold temperature. Still, not worth taking it with you, there are always females around to borrow one, if needed.
  • Nova-days, we just can’t live without our smartphones, so it is very important to have an extension for the socket, as in many hostels they are far away from your bed.
  • Don`t try to save money buying a cheap backpack. It is one of the most important things and your home for next months. It will be on your back for many many hours, so very good, comfortable straps are essential. It really needs to be a top quality one. I bought a cheap one, had to sewn it many times, and I’ve wounds on my shoulders from a very bad straps, trust me, hurt a lot! Before my next backpacking trip I bought a good one and that made a big difference.
  • Apart from the shoes, I binned quickly, Lonely Planet book on South America got left in my third hotel, simply because I didn’t want to carry such a heavy guide-book, since everything I needed was online. Maybe for people staying in tents, when internet connection is not always available, might be helpful, but otherwise you will be just fine with your smart phone.

Last tips

  • Please, wherever you are flying to, don`t stay just one night in your first location. Your body need to rest after a long fly and adapt to the new climate. It took me 4 days, when I landed in Brazil in November, from a cold Europe.
  •  I`ve had 50 Euros always in my purse, just in case. Cash machine is not always available. US Dollars are good too.
  • When it comes to thieving and robberies, South America is a leader. Please, always keep an eye on your valuables. Do not keep your backpack behind, always on one arm on the side or on your chest. I was also tightening straps from the zip together.
  • Don`t drink a tab water anywhere, unless it’s confirmed by staff in hotel/hostel or by sigh close to the tap.
  • Planning to buy outstanding sweater, cardigan? Leave it for Bolivia and Peru! Best quality (especially alpaca`s wool) and price.
  • Try to, if possible, have to different types of your cards. I`ve had a Visa and MasterCard, and I found that sometime just first one worked, sometimes second. My MasterCard (credit card) was definitely more acceptable. 
  • Your passport and your wallet is your main priority! Never leave it alone, even in a locker in hostel! You don`t even relies how easy is to open it for professional. I got robbed this way in Santiago, in Chile.
  • Before departure, I gave my mother copy of my passport, insurance, injections I took, all pin numbers and account details, just in case and for peace of my mind. Please do so as well, leave it with someone you trust and memorize phone number, you newer know what might happen.
  • Take 2 types (thin and thick) of padlock, as they are not always available, and some lockers got a thin holes (to use smaller one). Don`t worry if you will forget, they are widely available to purchase almost everywhere, along with socket extensions and adapters.
  • Do not panic if there is an error in a cash machine, it may not be your card, but machine might be just empty. It really is a common problem. I remember, in Buenos Aires, I’ve had to try 6 of them, before finding one with money in it.
  • As a budget backpackers, always check general prices in each country. You can have a look here too. A very expensive trip on Amazon trough a rain forest from Brazil might be very cheap from Bolivia, Colombia or Venezuela.

Buenos Aires-Uruguay by ferry

  It would be a crime not to pop in to any of Uruguayan city or town while in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Especially if you will fallow my way of thinking: “common Anna, you may not have this occasion in your life again”. Visiting close by Uruguay is well easy and well possible, but that of course if you have some spare time. There are few options to get there from Buenos Aires. Apart from the bus, that can take you everywhere in South America, you can fly (very expensive and a bit pointless) or just take a ferry. Here, we will look in to the last option of transport, simply because I used it for my one day trip to Uruguay, to Colonia del Sacramento specifically. Ferry, apart from being nice option for a trip, can be a great way to move to your next location while backpacking South America. I guess buses are the cheapest option, and there is loads of info about timetable and price online, so I will just concentrate on the water-path. The ferry, as a way quicker option than bus, can be also a great break from bus traveling, as if you are backpacking, like I did, you will be spending loads of time in them, I mean looooads.

  So basically, you can choose between two kind of trips (places) you can reach by ferry. First one will take you all the way to Montevideo, capital of Uruguay, second to Colonia del Sacramento, a cute, quiet and small colonial town by the cost. As stated before, I took a trip to Colonia, but definitely would pick Montevideo over now. You can also see both, if you have time of course, as from Colonia you can catch a bus to capital that takes 3 hours of journey. Please note that these companies do operates between other towns and cities, but Montevideo and Colonia is the only touristic one, that’s why I am not mentioning other places here.

Companies, service and routes

   The Buenos Aires-Montevideo or Colonia del Sacramento ferry route is currently operated by 3 companies. The Buquebus service runs up to 13 times per week, while the Colonia Express service runs up to 3 times per day.  The Seacat company is the third option to choose from.

Buquebus provides two services to Colonia del Sacramento – one faster and more expensive and the other is slower and therefore cheaper. The faster Buquebus catamaran ferry (1h15mins) is usually quite crowded with day tourists and travel groups.IMG_2588 Cheaper prices are well possible to find when booking in advance and online. The fast boats have a free wireless internet. The slower boat takes about 3 hours and it is the one I took. However, checking now the web page, I can no longer find this service. Shame, I really loved my 3 hours on the endless sea. Both kind of boats have a restaurant, cafe and an off duty shops. Buenos Aires to Montevideo service takes 2h15mins and arrives at the Ciudad Vieja district of Montevideo, situated very close to downtown. Terminal is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same for Seacat).

Colonia Express  takes roughly 1h to reach Colonia and 3h45mins to reach Montevideo. There is no wifi provided but there is a duty-free shop and a small bar selling snacks and coffees. Terminal is located at Av. Elvira Rawson de Dellepiane 155, Puerto Madero Sur, Buenos Aires.

Seacat ferry to Montevideo takes 4h15mins, to Colonia is 1h. Termina is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same for Buquebus).

Prices as of July 2017

Busquebus (webside here) is the most expensive and offers ticket one way economy class to Montevideo from 93$, however return ticket starts at 43$ (can’t believe I picked this company!). Day trip to Colonia cost around 80$ (same day return) economy class fast 1h15min boat, which doesn’t seems like a great discount as single journey starts from 47$.

Colonia Express (website here) offers a day trips (so with return the same day) to Colonia that cost from 70$ (the cheapest) up to 115 $, depending on time and day. One way to Colonia cost around 38$ in the cheapest economy class. To Montevideo one way ticket cost around 45$ in the cheapest economy class.

Seacat (webside here) day trip to Colonia (return the same day) ferry cost from 75$ (economy), and it seem to be a steady price. Buenos Aires-Montevideo cost 43$ for one way cheapest economy class.

Buying a ticket

    It is not necessary to pre-book your ticket online, but it can save you some money, and it is a good idea during a holiday, when loads of people travel on this route. Buying in advance can also save you some stress, as there might be a long queue to get a ticket just before the departure. As mentioned, you can purchase your ticket online, thought the web page for Busquebus is very poorly designed, with a very misleading currencies in dollars. However, if you are not in Buenos Aires, it is best to book and buy online before the departure. My hostel was very close to the Busquebus terminal, so I just walked there, and I bought a ticket at the agent located inside. I can’t say stuff speaks well English, but we closed the deal without any major hassle. You can pay by cash or card, and as far as I remember, I purchased a day return the cheapest option to Colonia (3h of journey) and I paid around 70-80$ (December 2015).

Remember to check-in

  Please do keep in your mind that this is an international journey that required you to check-in at the doc with your passport and bag, if you have one. Same as at the airport, you will have to get in a queue lane towards your check-in desk. You should also be at the terminal at least an hour and a half before the departure for immigration purposes etc. Your passport will be checked, but you will get stamped after check-in, but before waiting area. I can’t remember seeing off duty shops there, but they are at the ferry, with a very good prices, especially for cosmetics. liquor is also available to purchase too.

Time change

  Please do keep in you mind that a time difference between Uruguay and Argentina, with Uruguay being ahead, is one hour. Important to know the proper return departure time. I wasn`t aware of it, and I arrived at the dock an hour ahead, when I coud enjoy the Colonial old town longer.

Last tips

  • Argentinian pesos are widely used in Colonia. I paid in the restaurant by them for my bill.
  • Very cute touristic old town in Colonia, by the cost, is easily accessible just on food, so no need to take a taxi.
  • For a budget backpacker is better to get your own food and take with, as restaurants in Uruguay are very expensive, with pizzas and burgers starting at 10$ as the cheapest option. You can get a snack with you for the time of journey too, as again, restaurant inside the ferry is very pricey and to be honest, not the best one.
  • 3-4 hours is more than enough to visit Colonia del Sacramento.
  • If you plan to pick Montevideo over Colonia del Sacramento, which I really think is a better option, you need to stay a minimum of one night in capital to do a proper city-seeing.

  • Please consider buying a ticket in advance for weekends and the peak season (Christmas until the end of February).

Say hello to my little friend

  Learning salsa, visiting places, meeting new people, chatting with locals, enjoying night life. My time in Colombia was definitely beyond my expectations and came as a highlight. I just wish I could have more time to spend there. As just of my 10 days slot before flying to Panama, I could only see Cali and Bogotá. Sadly, I had to skip Medellin, the city I always wanted to visit. However, I`ve had enough time to absolutely fall in love with locals. They charmed me with their kindness, passion for dance, music and general love for life. Thought, Latino are well known for being very enthusiastic about dance and music, yet they still managed to surprised me how much they really do love it, and how important it is in their lives. And here we are in Cali, the city where salsa is coming from. Walking around, high on a coffee, I was able to truly discover this, once one of the most dangerous in the world, city. I saw people enjoying their life, dancing on the streets, being always surrounded by the music that could be heard from cars, houses, phones, cd players, literally from every corner. You really have to try hard to find a quiet place there. So many things happen always around, leisure areas are usually full of people. This can be hardly found in busy western countries that seems so gray next to colorful and vibrant Colombia. I met loads of local friends there along with other travelers. Not surprisingly, they all said that Colombia was one of the best destinations of their backpacking trips. I am just hoping, I will go back to to this country, there is still so much to experience and discover for me. Hopefully one day…

My highlights

  • Enjoying live events in Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz.
  • Watching Colombians dance salsa on the street.
  • Lunch in mercado with just locals.
  • Late night in Salsa Club, where I learned to dance it.
  • Starting every morning with the best coffee in the world.
  • Chilling on the hill around San Antonio Church.
  • Enjoying rice and beans almost as good as in Brazil.
  • Hanging out with Manu Chao crew, as they stayed in my hotel during his tour.
  • Few scary night walks back to hotel.
  • White rum with Russian version of Jack Sparrow (hello Anton;).
  • Sweet bamboo juice.
  • Making loads of amazing friends.

Titicaca Lake, Copacabana vs Puno

   Holding the title of highest navigable lake on the planet, as well as on my list of the most beautiful water basins in the world, tucked away high in the Andes between snow-covered peaks, Lake Titicaca is one of the most popular places to see in South America. Known for its unique panorama during the day and the night-time, crystal-clear air and water, combine with mountain range around. Believed to be the birthplace of the first Incas, along with the sun, moon and stars, when creator came out of the lake.

   The main two bases to explore Lake Titicaca (and other sites in the region) are Puno in Peru and Copacabana in Bolivia. From Copacabana, most tour operators run a day trips to the Isla del Sol, with a quick stop at the Isla de la Luna. I did visit these two mentioned towns, and I stayed minimum of two nights in each, which gave me some time to look around in both. If you’re backpacking and having loads of time, you can stop in both to see the Bolivian and Peruvian side of Titicaca.  However, if you’re rushing a bit, I would definitely suggest staying just in Copacabana in Bolivia. Why? Well, for few reasons really. Bolivian town is way smaller and cutter. Very touristic too, which I don’t always like, but can be handy when it comes to accommodation and organized trips. Lake is looking really amazing (way better) from this side as well, you can hike some mountains around to spot the stunning panorama of the pool and surrounded areas. In Puno, the lake side can`t be really accessible properly, there is no beach to sit and enjoy, and there’s not so many hills from where you can get a good grip of Titicaca. Having said all that, I loved Puno for its truly Peruvian vibe. There is loads of street food stands around, loads of mercados to grab a very tasty local meal, stand with fresh fruits, vegetables, colorful ladies with coca leafs…everything really.

This can not be found in Copacabana, I was really struggling there to find a proper local food, and once I even ended up ordering a pizza. Not so cool. However, It’s just a food, and I think exploring the lake is the reason we are there in the first place, so again, that points us towards Copacabana over Puno. there is also loads of hotels by the lake (I was lucky to be in one), when in Puno you can hardly find any so close to the water. So I think we have a winner at the end-Copacabana. The other reason to stay at just one place is the fact that any route you will take to get there, you will be able to have another good look at the lake, as streets are usually around Titicaca. If you will come from  La Paz, like myself, to Copacabana, you will even cross the lake on the boat.  Either way you will choose, the bottom line is not to skip this place. Trust me, Titicaca will stay in your heart forever.

Convincing photos to choose an organized trip from San Pedro to Uyuni

   If you are still thinking whether you should cross the border between Chile and Bolivia yourself, please stop right now! Magnificent Salar de Uyuni is a must do place while in Bolivia or Northern part of Chile. Tourists usually do visit this absolutely stunning and unique place from Uyuni, the town in Bolivia, or from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. It is not so difficult to get to salt flats without any guide, but tour agencies, that can be found in many towns all around, came up with a wonderful 3 or 4 days tour that include Salar de Uyuni, as number one attractions, along with many more wonderful places, that you can see only with a guide. Dry salty area, as a highlight, will become just like an addition next to them. Salar de Uyuni will get overshadowed by beautiful lagoons, geysers, deserts, volcanoes, truly remote villages, you will spend a night in, and interesting rock formations. It is one of the most bizarre and beautiful places in the world, you just can not miss, especially while so close to it. Paying only 180$ for a 3 day tour is just a bargain we have to grab. Unluckily, I have lost loads of my photos from the trip, but I hope the remaining ones will be convincing enough to you to buy a this trip.

DIY Machu Picchu as a must choice

    Machu Picchu. We all heard this name before. Most popular place in South America, maybe even in the world, that attracts thousands of visitors every week, and my biggest mistake. Arriving at Cuzco already gives you the idea how many travelers from all around the world do come to see the biggest remaining Incas town. Streets of this Peruvian town are just packed with many agencies that offer an organized tours to see Machu Picchu that include everything. Sounds nice and easy, why not? Well, no. As soon as I arrived to Cuzco, I went to the first agency, I spotted, to buy a 2 days trip. I did not plan on doing so, but as soon as I saw the price, I did. I paid only 95$, and in this price I`​ve had a transport, one night in a hotel, ticket to Machu Picchu side, lunch, dinner in the evening and an English-speaking guide. I did some research before on prices, and it was always coming as a 300$ all together, that`​s why as soon as I saw the price of 95$, I just bought a trip. The problem was that we have been given only max of 5 hours at the side. This is not enough! You need a whole full day to properly explore it! I did not hike the mountain, I did not go to see the Sun Gate. I didn`t even see the Aguas Calientes, closest village to Machu Picchu, properly. That is a big hole in your heart, and I just do not want you to experience it. Yes, maybe there are some agencies that do offer a 3-4 days trips where you can spend the whole day in this Incas town. Not a problem then, just book it. Otherwise never book a 2 days tour. Here, remembering planning on getting there myself, I will share with you how to rich Machu yourself.

   Step one and most important. Please do book your ticket for Machu Picchu side in advance. Thought, I bought a tour just 3 days before going, I`ve read that it is more difficult for solo visitors to purchase one. You can do it online and you need your passport to purchase it. Here is a link to click. You can also do it in the office in Cuzco and Aguas Calientes.



Option number one (cheap)

  1. Lets start from Cuzco, town in Peru, as a nice and easy option to begin, thought very beautiful itself. So take a bus from Cuzco to Santa Maria (towards Quillabamba) as early in the morning as possible. The bus will take 5-6 hours.
  2. Catch a collective from Santa Maria to Hidroelectrica (an hour of journey).
  3. From Hidroelectrica just walk following the rails to the town called Aguas Calientes. Shouldn’t take longer than 2.5 hours. Of course, you can take a train, but the area around is way to beautiful to just to do it.
  4. Stay minimum for two nights in Aguas Calientes (loads of dorms available).
  5. Start the scent of Machu Picchu early in the morning. I would say 4-5 am.
  6. Climb the steps to the entrance and wait in a queue to enter (have a passport with you). Climbing should take around 2 hours. You can also take a 20-minute bus ride that operates every 15 minutes starting at 5:30 a.m. (24$ adult round trip, 12$ child round trip). Side is open from 6 am till 5 pm.
  7. Stay there till they will close the door and return to spend another night in Aguas Calientes.


    Option number two (most expensive)

  1. Take a train from Cusco straight to Aguas Calientes. It is quiet expensive, but if you can spare some money, it will be quickest and most convenient option that will take less than 5 hours (1h to Poroy+3.5h in the train). The so-called Cuzco train station is in the nearby town of Poroy. I will take an hour to get from central Cusco to the train station by taxi. Bus is an option as well.


Option number three (the cheapest)

  1. Take a van/collective from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo (less than an hour of journey).
  2. Take a van  to the Kilometre 82 train station, a 30-minute journey from where you will start walking to Aguas Calientes.
  3. Walk 30 km to Aguas Calientes, following the rail line. You can take a rail too from there, but the whole path is just amazing, and it should take just less than 8 hours.



South America in numbers-cost of accommodation, transport and food

   Backpacking, as a new way of life for loads of us, or just as an episode, always requires loads of planning ahead. It is probably the fastest growing way of traveling nowadays, especially for young people. Costing, creating your trail and allocating the amount of time, you are planning to spend in each place, is something every traveler came across. ffffdd I know it from autopsy, especially from my 6 months trip in South America. Budget was as important to me as a discovery of every possible amazing place in this colorful continent. It is not easy to find this balance, but well possible. I, myself, spend more time in Bolivia and less in Argentina, to keep my finances in place. Luckily, Bolivia became as the highlight of my journey, and I found Argentina least attractive. Mathematics and rational thinking is laughing at as at this point, as of the fact that longer you are planning to travel, the cheaper it will get. I did my backpacking in 2015-2016, but I have rechecked the recent, as of May 2017, prices, to provide you with a very current information on Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru and Uruguay. So where do we stand with the cost? Lets have a look.


Argentina

Overlook: Most expensive in South America and expensive in general. Difficult to fully explore and enjoy for a budget backpacker, but possible to survive.

Accommodation: Not as expensive as food and transport. Hostels starts from just 7$, hotels from 14$.

Transport: Extremely expensive as of South American pricing.

   Buses: Thought, the distances in Argentina are great, and you know you will need usually 10-20h to get from A to B, they are still way more expensive than expected. If you are brave, try to hitchhiking. Otherwise expect to pay around 100$ for a 10-12h of a journey. I paid around 180$ for a fully recline chair from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires, and it took 22 hours.

     Public: 0.40$ in Buenos Aires for a single ride. Please note that you need to buy a Sube Card, or you can pay to someone to swipe you in.

      Taxi: Since there is one official tariff, you are not going to be charged more. Relatively  cheap at 0.92$ for 1 km.

Food: Hot-dog and burger stands are on every corner in Buenos Aires, and usually cost 3$, but meal in restaurant is for 15-20$.

Daily budget: You can easily make it at 35$ a day, but this does not include traveling between cities, going and eating out.


Bolivia

Overlook: One of the cheapest countries in South America. Please do enjoy, buy organized trips, eat only out, stock up on anything you need (clothes, backpack, etc).

Accommodation: Hostels start at 4-5$, hotels at 8$.

Transport: Very cheap, especially between cities (dodgy buses with no toilet), very cheap to travel around the city too.

      Buses: Depending on the comfort, 1-3$ for 1h of journey.

    Public: 0.15$ for micro bus for single journey, 0.40 $ for single ride in a van (La Paz).

      Taxi: 1.43$ for 1 km.

Food: Main meal in the market (with drink) cost 1-2$. Soup 0.50$.

Daily budget: Possible to make it with just 15$ a day.


Brazil

Overlook: Not cheap, not expensive either. Buses tend to be pricey, but accommodation and food are affordable.

Accommodation: Hostels starts at 5$, hotels at 12$ (Sao Paulo).

Transport:

    Buses: 40-50$ as the cheapest sit for 11h of journey (Catarinense company).

    Public: 1$ for single journey by metro, 0.74-1.10$ for the bus (Sao Paulo).

     Taxi: 0.82$ for 1 km (Sao Paulo).

Food: Kilo shops are the cheapest, it is a buffet style restaurant, where you dish the food yourself, and you pay for the weight of it. Approx 7-8$ for 1 kg.

Daily budget: Can start from 20-25$ a day.


Chile

Overlook: A bit more expensive then Brazil, cheaper than Argentina. Buses and restaurants are expensive, accommodation is not so cheap as well.

Accommodation: Hostels start at 9$, hotels at 25$.

Transport: Relatively expensive.

    Buses: Expensive, but you can save by buying in advance (around 20% cheaper). Around 100$ for 22h of journey (Santiago to San Pedro).

    Public: You have to buy a Bip card that cost 2.24$. Micros always cost 1$ per trip, and the metro ranges from 0.90$ to 1.05$, depending on the time. If you ride the bus then transfer to the metro within 60 minutes, you will just be charged the difference in fare.

     Taxi: 0.97$ for 1km. Please note that its normal to cheat on tourists. I did not watch the tariff, and I paid 35$ for 5 km!!!

Food: Expensive to eat out in a restaurant in Santiago, easily 15$ for a lunch for one person. Fast foods and food stands (hot-dogs, chips, burgers, pizza slices) are cheaper (3-5$) and can be found very often. There is a big, main mercado, where you can eat for 5-6$ in Santiago.

Daily budget: Starts from 20-25$, and can be done for 20 $ only when cooking by itself.


Colombia

Overlook: One of the cheapest country.

Accommodation: Hostels starts at 5-6$, hotels at 10$.

Transport: Public, taxis and domestic transport is very cheap.

    Buses: 11h of journey starts at 25$ (Cali-Bogota).

     Public: 0.49$ for single journey.

  Taxi: 1.54$ for 1km. Please use only licensed taxis, ideally recommend by hotel

Food: Very cheap to eat out. Rice, beans and meat can be found at 1.5$.

Daily budget: You can survive at 15$ a day.


Ecuador

Overlook: Vary from very cheap (in less touristic places) to more expensive (Montanita, Banos).

Accommodation: Hostels starts at 5$, hotels at 10$ (Quito). Hostels starts at 10$, hotels from 25 in very touristic Montanita.

Transport: Cheap in general.

     Buses: 1-1.5$ for an hour of journey.

     Public: 0.25$ for single ride (Quito).

     Taxi: 0.40$ for 1km (Quito)

Food: Loads of very cheap places to eat. Rice, meat, salad with drink can be found for 3-4$.

Daily budget: Can start from 20$ a day.


Paraguay

Overlook: Very cheap, the cheapest next to Bolivia when it comes to food, transport and accommodation.

Accommodation: Hostels starts at 5$, hotels at 8$.

Transport:

      Buses: starts at 1$ for 1h of journey.

  Public: 0.40-0.60$ for a single ride (Asunción).

     Taxi: 0.94$ for 1 km (Asunción)

Food: Very cheap, if not the cheapest in South America. Main meal can be found from 1.5$ in mercado area.

Daily budget: 20$ a day, but can be done from 15$.


Peru

Overlook: Peru is very affordable, just a little bit more expensive than Bolivia, cheaper than Ecuador. Cusco, from where you can do Machu Picchu, is most expensive with Miraflores area in Lima.

Accommodation: Hostels start at 6$, hotels at 8$ (hotels at this price are in a very dodgy areas in Lima).

Transport:

      Buses: Can be found at very affordable price or for twice more for the same standard bus, so it is good to do some research. Starts from only 35$ from Lima to Mancora (18h of journey). Here I have to reccommend a Civa bus company as of a cheap price and very good confort.

   Public: Starts at 0.15$ for single ride (Lima).

     Taxi: 1.52$ for 1 km (Lima)

Food: Very cheap, in mercados possible to find a main meal for 1.5$.

Daily budget: Same as Bolivia and Paraguay starts at 20$, but can be done even from 15$.


Uruguay

Overlook: Expensive, just a little bit cheaper than Argentina, thought the size helps to explore it better.

Accommodation: Hostels starts at 12$, hotels at 16$.

Transport:

     Buses: Around 7$ for 2h of journey.

 Public: 1.10$ for a single ticket (Montevideo).

    Taxi: 0.74$ for 1 km (Montevideo).

Food: Very expensive to eat out, especially in the evening in the restaurant. Lunches starts at 8-10$, but as the cheapest one in a dodgy place.

Daily budget: Can start from 35$, very similar to Argentina.