Bosnia, Herzegovina and something else

 Fact that I visited nine countries during my backpacking trip trough stunning Balkans definitely do allow me to make up my mine on the most magnificent one. Though, clearly when it comes to judgments like that, we are all aware about strong subjective side of it. Going even further, I wanted to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina for a very long time, especially because I wrote one chapter in my master thesis about the war there. Starting my journey just from knowledge of the spilled blood and history, though, still young and fresh, I went trough creation of an image in my head from all kind of sources as documentaries, photos, information, to finally finish seeing, visiting, discovering, meeting people and just simply feel this country myself. I knew before planning my trip that it is going to be my favorite country in Europe. And yet again(!), I wasn’t mistaken. Same like with Bolivia and Nepal…I just felt the chemistry before even visiting. Perhaps difficult to explain, or probably my senses are already directed towards one side and my mind sabotaging my opinion, since I am making one in advance. More or less, here we are in Bosnia and Herzegovina…..the most amazing, at least for me, country in Europe with warm people, absolutely stunning and unique rivers, diverse architecture, rich culture and beautiful mountain range all around. Spearing to write more and just adding my recommendation to visiting this absolutely unique place, I just want to share some photos I took.

Best and cheapest restaurants in Wrocław-culinary heaven for backpackers (May 2025 update)

 We all, as backpackers, know way to well what daily budget means to us, and how essential is to stuck to it! We have to fallow the plan on accommodation prices, food,  transport and other pleasures. I can not say that you will find the cheapest hostels and, especially, hotels in Wrocław, city in Poland, but when it comes to meals…luckily we do offer few very good and very affordable restaurants. You can have a breakfast there from 2-3$ with a coffee, a soup for 2.5$ and a lunch/dinner starting at as little as 4$. And do not think it compares the quality of the food, because it really doesn’t. Food is home-made, traditional and simply delicious!! These restaurants are also very popular among students, that usually have a limited budged themselves. The only minus, I am afraid, is that the staff do not speak almost any English and that might be hard for travellers, but there is always someone around to help. Once you will master the task of getting an order, you just wont be disappointed. Here, I will write about top ten best and cheapest restaurants and some milk bars, as we call them, you can find in the city center in Wroclaw.

Miś Milk Bar (Bar Mleczny Miś)

Definitely my number one and all time favourite. I always dine there when possible and when in the city center area, and not because is very cheap there. Students favourite too and well popular in general in Wroclaw, offering anything from breakfast, lunch and dinner at lowest possible price with and old school vibe present all around. And, most importantly, all is well made and taste very good. Location is just perfect, right next to the University of Wroclaw and very close to the main square and town hall. Please trust me and pop in for a lunch! The only minus is that some dishes, like pierogi, go fast and after 14.00 it`s difficult to order them. Opening hours also may be a problem for travellers who like to eat late, otherwise nothing is stopping you! 

Address: ul. Kuźnicza 48, Wrocław
Opening hours: Mon–Fr: 8.00–18.00, Sat: 8.00–17.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

Soups
  • Broth: 6.50 PLN / 1.60 USD

  • Tomato soup: 7.20 PLN / 1.80 USD

  • Cabbage soup: 8.40 PLN / 2.10 USD

  • Pea soup: 10.20 PLN / 2.55 USD

  • Sour rye soup with sausage and egg: 10.20 PLN / 2.55 USD

  • Tripe: 10.20 PLN / 2.55 USD

Meat Dishes
  • Minced steak: 9.80 PLN / 2.45 USD

  • Meatballs in cream sauce: 12.70 PLN / 3.20 USD

  • Chicken breast in bread crumbs: 12.70 PLN / 3.20 USD

  • Pork goulash: 12.80 PLN / 3.25 USD

  • Cutlet de volaille: 13.40 PLN / 3.40 USD

  • Chicken nuggets: 13.40 PLN / 3.40 USD

  • Pork neck in sauce: 13.40 PLN / 3.40 USD

  • Pork pocket with mushrooms: 14.00 PLN / 3.55 USD

  • Pork chop XL: 18.20 PLN / 4.60 USD

  • Beef tartare with additions: 21.10 PLN / 5.35 USD

  • Hungarian meat cake: 26.20 PLN / 6.65 USD

  • Miruna fish (per 100g): 10.20 PLN / 2.55 USD

Dumplings, Pasta, Pancakes
  • Pancakes with cheese: 12.40 PLN / 3.15 USD

  • Russian dumplings: 13.10 PLN / 3.35 USD

  • Dumplings with spinach: 15.30 PLN / 3.90 USD

  • Dumplings with cabbage and mushrooms: 14.60 PLN / 3.70 USD

  • Dumplings with meat: 15.80 PLN / 4.05 USD

  • Spaghetti Bolognese: 23.40 PLN / 5.95 USD

  • Pasta with chicken: 23.40 PLN / 5.95 USD

  • Pasta with salmon: 26.20 PLN / 6.65 USD

Breakfasts
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 3.36 PLN / 0.85 USD

  • Yellow cheese: 2.66 PLN / 0.67 USD

  • Bread roll: 1.63 PLN / 0.41 USD

  • Butter: 1.07 PLN / 0.27 USD

  • Jam: 0.80 PLN / 0.20 USD

  • Cottage cheese with cream and chives: 5.18 PLN / 1.31 USD

  • Boiled egg: 1.18 PLN / 0.30 USD

  • Compote: 0.89 PLN / 0.23 USD

The total cost of a breakfast set ranges from approximately 9.52 PLN to 9.95 PLN, which is about 2.41 USD to 2.52 USD. Let me know if you’d like me to update prices for another restaurant or dish!

Mis.jpgTu dla moich polskich braci moj ulubiony fragmet z Misia:

“Jedziecie do stolicy kraju kapitalistycznego, ktory to kraj ma byc moze tam i swoje plusy. Rozchodzi sie o to jednak zeby te plusy……nie przyslonily wam minusow”.


SWOJSKA CHATA BAR

Just opened recently, so does recently became one of my favourite. Highly recommended for tourists, students and “grandma`s kitchen” lovers”. You can find here pierogi, mash potatoes with meat, loads of salads, krokets and recently pizza. Its very close to the city center (main square). You just must to pop in!!!

Opening Hours
  • Main Location (Kazimierza Wielkiego 17):

    • Monday to Friday: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM

    • Saturday: 11:30 AM – 4:30 PM

    • Sunday: Closed

  • Railway Station Location (ul. Piłsudskiego 105):

    • Monday to Saturday: 9:30 AM – 7:00 PM

    • Sunday: 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)
Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 4.20 PLN / 1.05 USD

  • Bread roll with cheese: 3.50 PLN / 0.88 USD

  • Cottage cheese with chives: 5.80 PLN / 1.45 USD

  • Boiled egg: 1.50 PLN / 0.38 USD

  • Jam: 1.20 PLN / 0.30 USD

  • Compote: 1.00 PLN / 0.25 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Traditional Polish dumplings (6 pieces): 9.50 PLN / 2.38 USD
  • Full main dinner (mashed potatoes, chicken breast, salad): 18.80 PLN / 4.70 USD
  • Soup of the day: 6.50 PLN / 1.63 USD
  • Meat dumplings: 11.50 PLN / 2.88 USD
  • Croquettes with cheese and mushrooms (2 pieces): 9.40 PLN / 2.35 USD
  • Salads (beetroot, cabbage, carrot): 3.50 PLN / 0.88 USD
  • Sweet pancakes: 4.50 PLN / 1.13 USD

 Mewa Milk Bar (Bar Mleczny Mewa)

Another milk bar very similar to Miś Milk Bar. Also in the city center area, just a bit further north. Prices and menu are very similar to Miś, so you can have a tasty, homemade, delicious meal at a very affordable price again. The big plus is that this place seems less busy than Miś, but also popular. Pierogi are served from 13.00 and are the most popular dish, so you need to pop in earlier to have a chance to get them.

Address: ul. Drobnera 4, Wrocław
Opening hours:

  • Monday to Friday: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM

  • Saturday: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 3.43 PLN / 0.85 USD

  • Cottage cheese with chives: 3.68 PLN / 0.91 USD

  • Bread roll: 1.43 PLN / 0.35 USD

  • Butter: 0.61 PLN / 0.15 USD

  • Jam: 0.80 PLN / 0.20 USD

  • Cocoa with milk: 2.35 PLN / 0.58 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Traditional Polish dumplings (6 pieces): 9.50 PLN / 2.38 USD

  • Soup of the day: 6.50 PLN / 1.63 USD

  • Pierogi with cabbage and mushrooms: 10.00 PLN / 2.50 USD

  • Pierogi with meat: 10.80 PLN / 2.70 USD

  • Hungarian meat cake: 18.00 PLN / 4.50 USD

  • Compote: 4.00 PLN / 1.00 USD


HOMEMADE Dumplings bar (PIEROGARNIA KUCHNIA DOMOWA)

Address: ul. Legnicka 23, Wrocław

Opening Hours
  • Monday to Friday: 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM

  • Saturday: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM

  • Sunday: Closed

Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 4.50 PLN / 1.13 USD

  • Cottage cheese with chives: 5.80 PLN / 1.45 USD

  • Bread roll: 2.00 PLN / 0.50 USD

  • Butter: 1.20 PLN / 0.30 USD

  • Jam: 1.50 PLN / 0.38 USD

  • Compote: 1.00 PLN / 0.25 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Russian dumplings: 12.50 PLN / 3.13 USD

  • Meat dumplings: 14.50 PLN / 3.63 USD

  • Dumplings with spinach: 15.50 PLN / 3.88 USD

  • Hungarian meat cake with goulash: 26.00 PLN / 6.50 USD

  • Goulash with potatoes and salad: 18.90 PLN / 4.73 USD

  • Sweet pancakes: 10.00 PLN / 2.50 USD



Witek Bar (Bar Witek)

This bar offers a great traditional range of our old school PRL toasts – a typical Polish fast food during the communism time. It has been opened in 1979 and still serve one of the best and very cheesy toasts with mushrooms. Portions are very big and very filling.

Address: ul. Wita Stwosza 40/1a, Wrocław

Opening Hours
  • Monday to Friday: 9:30 AM – 7:00 PM

  • Saturday: 10:00 AM – 6:30 PM

  • Sunday: Closed

Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Traditional toast with cheese and mushrooms: 9.50 PLN / 2.38 USD

  • Village-style toast with mushrooms, cheese, sausage, and onion: 11.20 PLN / 2.80 USD

  • Greek toast with olives: 11.40 PLN / 2.85 USD

  • Open-faced toasted cheese sandwich with mushrooms: 8.50 PLN / 2.13 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Zapiekanka (Polish-style baguette pizza): 12.00 PLN / 3.00 USD

  • Mega Zapiekanka with double toppings: 15.00 PLN / 3.75 USD

  • Pepperoni toast: 10.50 PLN / 2.63 USD

  • Ham and cheese toastie: 9.80 PLN / 2.45 USD

Another amazing milk bar near the city center. This one is open a bit longer. You can find loads of tourists here, as its very close to the main train and bus station. Food is homemade and very traditional, however a bit more expensive than other milk bars like Miś or Mewa.

Address: ul. Kołłątaja 27/28, Wrocław

Opening Hours
  • Monday to Friday: 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM

  • Saturday: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM

  • Sunday: Closed

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 4.00 PLN / 1.00 USD

  • Cottage cheese with chives: 5.50 PLN / 1.38 USD

  • Bread roll: 2.00 PLN / 0.50 USD

  • Butter: 1.20 PLN / 0.30 USD

  • Jam: 1.50 PLN / 0.38 USD

  • Compote: 1.00 PLN / 0.25 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Russian dumplings: 15.00 PLN / 3.75 USD
  • Meat dumplings: 17.00 PLN / 4.25 USD
  • Dumplings with spinach: 16.50 PLN / 4.13 USD
  • Pancakes with cheese or apples: 13.00 PLN / 3.25 USD
  • Full lunch (meat, potatoes, salad): 20.00 PLN / 5.00 USD

 Lepione Restaurant (Restauracja Lepione)

There is no way I will not think about Lepione (old Bazylia restaurant) without remembering my time at university. This buffet style restaurant is located inside one of the law department buildings, where I studied. I can’t say the food is top mach, but I love the fact that its cheap, you can fill your plate with everything you like, and you pay the same price of 0.90$ (1.20 zł) per 100g. I used to eat there after my lectures, exams, alone, with friends or family. The other thing about this place is location and surrounded stunning architecture you can enjoy while eating.

Address: ul. Kuźnicza 42, Wrocław 
Opening hours: everyday: 12.00–23.00

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

This is a buffet style restaurant where you add to the plate anything you like and pay for 100g. You will find there anything from traditional dumplings, salads, fish, chicken, goulash to Chinese chicken with bamboo. Price is 5 zł, that’s 1.33$, for 100g.

Promotions

Discounts after 5:00 PM, with prices dropping by 15%, 25%, or even 50% depending on the time.


Karmazyn Bar (Bar Karmazyn)

This amazing bar is located in one of the biggest indoor markets in Wroclaw, called Hala Targowa, so after a very tasty traditional, homemade meal you can have a look around.

Address: ul. Piaskowa 17, Wrocław

  • Monday to Friday: 9:00 AM – 6:30 PM

  • Saturday: 9:00 AM – 5:30 PM

  • Sunday: Closed

Examples of dishes and prices (English/Polish)

Breakfast Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Scrambled eggs with butter: 4.50 PLN / 1.13 USD

  • Cottage cheese with chives: 5.80 PLN / 1.45 USD

  • Bread roll: 2.00 PLN / 0.50 USD

  • Butter: 1.20 PLN / 0.30 USD

  • Jam: 1.50 PLN / 0.38 USD

  • Compote: 1.00 PLN / 0.25 USD

Lunch/Dinner Prices (PLN/USD)
  • Soup of the day: 13.00 PLN / 3.25 USD

  • Tomato soup: 13.00 PLN / 3.25 USD

  • Sour rye soup: 13.50 PLN / 3.38 USD

  • Meat dumplings (8 pieces): 24.00 PLN / 6.00 USD

  • Russian dumplings (8 pieces): 21.00 PLN / 5.25 USD

  • Pork chop with potatoes and salad: 35.50 PLN / 8.88 USD

  • Hungarian meat cake: 35.00 PLN / 8.75 USD


Pink Cow Milk Bar

Here are some example prices for Różowa Krowa Bar Mleczny in Wrocław:

Różowa Krowa Bar Mleczny is located at Świdnicka 36, Wrocław. Here are the opening hours:

  • Monday to Friday: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM

  • Saturday: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM

  • Sunday: Closed

Prices:
  • Soups: Starting from 7.50 PLN / 1.88 USD
  • Pierogi (dumplings): Around 18.00 PLN / 4.50 USD for a portion of 7 pieces
  • Main dishes: Prices range from 18.50 PLN / 4.63 USD to 22.00 PLN / 5.50 USD
  • Pancakes: Approximately 12.00 PLN / 3.00 USD for 2 pieces
  • Compote: 3.50 PLN / 0.88 USD

“Argentina has the waterfalls but Brazil has the balcony”. Choosing a gateway to see Iguazu Falls from Paraguay/Brazil/Argentina

  Wouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone, who visited South America or planning to, the fact that Iguazu Falls are the most known waterfalls on this continent. Going even further, one of the most impressive in the rest of the world, as they can easily and proudly be competitive with Niagara Falls. Having seen “Latino” one, I can confidently say that Iguazu stands out and outshines as way more incredible. They are taller than Canadian one, twice as wide, and are one of the greatest natural wonders of the world, with the area around marked as the UNESCO World Heritage. Iguazu Falls (Portuguese: Cataratas do Iguaçu, Spanish: Cataratas del Iguazú, Tupi: Y Ûasu “big water”) are situated near the border of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Water falls of the Iguazu River that rises near the city of Curitiba, on the border of the Argentinian province of Misiones and the Brazilian state of Paraná. The river, for most of its course, flows through Brazil, however, most of the falls are on the Argentinian side. They creates a natural water border between these countries, and they are the largest waterfall system in the world (275 waterfalls). The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. Below its confluence with the San Antonio River, that forms the boundary between Argentina and Brazil. Falls are set among National Parks, which consist of subtropical rain-forests that are home to hundreds of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna.

  The falls are very well known to every backpacker traveling through the continent or just around Brazil, Argentina or Paraguay, marking a very important dot on their map. There are two most popular gateways to discover these absolutely magnificent, violent and impressively big waters. First one is a Brazilian city called Foz do Iguaçu. Second, Argentinian town named Puerto Iguazú. Close by Ciudad del Este, in Paraguay, that is separated from Brazilian town just by the bridge named Puente de la Amistad (Friendship Bridge), creates also an easy way to reach our destination. I have seen all three of them, so If you’re in a rush and can pick just one location, you may want to have a look at some comparisons below. I will also write briefly about Argentinian and Brazilian side of the waterfalls to help you pick one, if you can not see both, which in my opinion is ideal, but not always a case for everyone.

Iguazu falls from Brazilian side

  • Three possible ways to experience the falls: from the top (but only from the side), from the bottom (Devil’s Throat, please take a waterproof jacket!) and by boat.
  • You can book a helicopter ride (only available on the Brazilian side) that cost around 100$.
  • This side offers a bus service connecting the falls with other activities. That service runs from the entrance to the end of the park every 10 minutes in both directions.
  • You’ll get to see the entire panorama of cascades, and this view cannot be duplicated on the Argentinian side.
  • Better Viewpoints, but really only a couple different of them.
  • Really cool bird park just outside the gates of the Brazilian National Park entrance.
  • As of a smaller area of the park, can be done in half of the day.
  • Entrance ticket is cheaper.

Iguazu falls from Argentinian side

  • Iguazú National Park is much bigger than its Brazilian counterpart, with more trails to walk along, and some that lead you right into the open water. You’ll need at least a full day (or two) to see it all and walk all of its trails.
  • Boat trips available too.
  • The Garganta del Diablo, bridge above the falls, literally swallows you up as you walk towards the end. It is probably the most impressive viewpoint where you appreciate the absolute power of the falls. The bridge extends all the way to the edge of the falls, as tons of water plunge aggressively into the far distance.
  • Available zip line.
  • You can get right on top of the waterfall, not exactly possible on Brazilian side.
  • On the Argentinian side of the park, there’s a small train leaving about every half an hour from near the entrance, going all the way to the beginning of the trail to the Garganta del Diablo.
  • There are many more options on the Argentinian side, and that is the side where you would want to spend more time.
  • 20% falling on to the Brazilian side and an impressive 80% in Argentina

The biggest difference, in my opinion, between Argentina and Brazil was that in Argentina you can see falls from right of the top, giving you the impression of standing on them. In Brazil, however, you have the impression of standing kind of under the waterfalls. Two totally different thing that are possible only on each side. Very difficult to compare.

Foz do Iguaçu (city in Brazil)

Pluses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is a city, and that gives you the opportunity to stuck up on anything you may be missing.
  • The prices around are not to high, and probably close by Ciudad del Este participate in this fact too.
  • There are few big discount shops around for a budget backpackers. Cheap street food stand can be easily found all around.
  • Bus, that goes to the falls, is located in the city center, very close to the big bus station.
  • Zoo to visit.
  • More hotels, restaurants and other amenities.
  • Not as touristic as Puerto Iguazú.

Minuses

  • Foz do Iguaçu is probably the worst city, I have stayed in while traveling around South America.
  • Main bus station, that connect cities (arriving from Florianopolis for example), is located far away from the center, which makes it difficult to just walk to your accommodation
  • Not many things to do around.
  • Not the friendliest people, I have met.

Puerto Iguazú (town in Argentina)

Pluses

  • Pleasant, safe, quiet and cute little town, so It is easy to find your way around.
  • Closest to Argentinian side of the falls.
  • Loads of travelers around to meet.
  • People seems more friendly than on Brazilian side.

Minuses

  • Very expensive prices, as generally in Argentina.
  • Not many cash machines around, and some do not accept your cards.
  • Nothing really to do in the town.
  • Expensive restaurants, set for tourists.

Ciudad del Este (city in Paraguay)

Pluses

  • Very cheap to stay in, eat out, everything really.
  • Easy access to Foz do Iguaçu, just by crossing the bridge from where you can catch a bus to the falls. Taxi is cheap to take too.
  • Very crowded streets, full of trading locals which give you the opportunity to discover the daily life and environment around Paraguayan people that live there.
  • Experiencing amazing, very lively vibrant city, a bit of a smuggling one, with busy streets packed with loads of stands. Well known for its cheap electronic equipment.
  • Markets rich of fruits and vegetables at very low prices.
  • Loads of cheap street food stands where you can grab a lunch for as little as 1$.
  • Extremely cheap accommodation.
  • Atmosphere on the streets.
  • Least touristic one on our list.
  • Very friendly people, very chatty, helpful, easy to interact with, more open to travelers.
  • Definitely one of my favorite places in South America.

Minuses

  • The only minus, I found, is an extra time you need to get to Foz de Iguazu to catch a bus to the falls. Having said that, you can get a taxi at a very cheap price to take you to the bus stop in Brazil.

Verdict

Of course, I will leave the choice to you. However, if I had to visit it not having much time, I would stop in Paraguay (Ciudad del Este), and from there I would travel to the Argentinian side to see it. For whats it worth, whatever side you will pick, you will be blown away by the magnificent diverse nature of the area and the beauty of this violently falling waters.

Day tour around Sofia

  Everyone of us, or at least most, do some itinerary before traveling. Its is always a significant question on the length of stay in each place, especially for a first-time visitors.  Capitals, as usually the biggest cites in the country, are no estrange to that doubt. Many of them in Europe vary from Barcelona, where you can stay for weeks, to smaller ones, where you can discover the place in just even less than few days, and feel satisfy. Good internet research always help to plan your trip better. And here I come with my blog post to answer that questions about one capital in Europe.

 

So where are we this time? Sophia, a capital of Bulgaria, a magnificent, and massively underrated (!), country, with stunning mountain range Vitosha, that is a volcanic mountain massif on the outskirts of the capital, visible literally all around from the city. Vitosha is one of the symbols of this city and the closest site for hiking and skiing. However, when it comes to Sofia, and as much as I loved Bulgaria myself, I can not say that capital itself offers a lot. One day is all you need to discover the place. I would even suggest going to see Rila Monastery in the morning and do the sight-seen after. All could be done in one day. Most of the major attractions are very close by, almost all located on one street. If you are staying in the city center area, you can start your tour from Ancient Complex Serdica, site situated just above the Serdika metro station, that displays the remains of the Roman city.

 

There is also a History Museum to see. Just 2 mins away you can see a Rotonda st. George, The Church of St George is an Early Christian red brick rotunda that is considered the oldest building in Sofia.

Now heading forward on pl. Knyaz Aleksandar, you can visit Ethnographic Museum (showcasing folk costumes & regional art & artifacts) and Russian Church. A bit further, on a left hand side, you can visit a stunning Alexander Nevski Cathedral. Built in Neo-Byzantine style serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria, and it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of the symbols of the Sofia and a primary tourist attraction. Heading more towards Crystal Palace, you can see on the way a building of a National Assembly.

 

Close by National Stadium, called Vasil Levski, could be an a attraction too, but to be honest, can be skipped. At the end I would suggest adding a National Palace of Culture, but its located a bit far away. However, can be easily reached by trolley line 1,2,5,8 and 9 just from the Crystal Palace.

This is a main itinerary for Sophia city center. Please keep in your mind that Rila Monastery is a must see place too, so if you want to spend one day around capital, please do add an extra day to see this stunning monastery hidden in a mountains.

That newly old capital, Skopje as Ive seen

 The stream of thoughts can probably come to loads of first time “Skopje arrivers”. I guess I was one of them. This small-sized capital of Macedonia creates an easy and quick access to the city center, so the surrounding architecture can be noticed right away. You may be experiencing thinking that you haven’t seen quiet a capital like this before. What history did not leave, you can always bring back, or can you really? The design of, so called, project Skopje 2014 completely transformed the way city center looks like today. There are loads of stories, loads of reasons behind this “clearly original” change. Big budget got involved too. And there is that sour question at the end: who is this really for? Tourists, as in the first place? It’s not a secret that it is one of the fastest growing industry. How about the locals? How do they find them self around? Maybe a show off, or the way to stand out to bust the tourism. You really have to get to the bottom of all this. The path trough, almost baroque kitsch like drooping richness in a country with not so great economy, may leave you with loads of questions.

 This, once plain, maze of Europe became a place for many neo-classic buildings and bridges along the river. Perhaps too white and too clean structures may turn out way too difficult to help you to get the vibe of past-time travel. Yet, you can’t really say they are not impressive. Shall we be grateful Macedonia is showing us how newly done acropolis possibly looked like for Greeks back in the days? Perhaps. Could be a plus. It can be left only for an individual opinion. But the feeling of fakery is still a bit present. The project has two main aims: to draw in more tourists and to try to reclaim aspects of the country’s history from neighborhood Greece, appealing to the patriotism of many ethnic Macedonians. Walking by the rich bronze statues full of bridges definitely wont make your head to turn away. You gladly will take your camera to photograph the things around. You will see, you will capture and then you will start to think. How? I do not see any problem investing in tourism. I do adore Moroccan king for doing so. And so do Moroccans, as I spoke with many of them. Yet, the King do it differently. He want to keep the culture present, but just making the country more accessible, safe and inviting. But here we have a bit different situation.

We are discussing a country  where 21.5% of the population live below poverty line with minimal wage at 231 Euros. Macedonia is also very vulnerable to economic developments in Europe, with a strong banking and trade ties and dependent on regional integration and progress toward EU membership for continued economic growth. And yet, on another hand we have a government spending loads of public founds. It been known that cost lay somewhere between €200-€500m (depending on who you talk to) and may have resulted in drop in minimal wage. Than we have a beautiful new buildings and statues. Quiet two opposite situations that divided the nations. The project, known as Skopje 2014, instigated by prime minister Nikola Gruevski, is just as questionable and arguably as diverse as it was when first announced.

  Many Macedonians are questioning the scheme’s vast public expense – not to mention its aesthetic qualities. We have also this sticky problem of complete ignorance towards a very large Muslim community, religion and culture that, sadly, did not get to participate in the project. I visited Skopje in March 2017. Being around city center area for few days, I witness anti-government demonstrations on a daily base. Thought, peaceful, yet shouting for attention a lot.  But there’s no doubting it has put the city on the tourist map. 

  Foreign visitors used to come to Skopje primarily to wander around the beautiful Old Bazaar district, with its alleys, mosques and old hilltop fort. But now they can go in less than five minutes from drinking a Turkish coffee among people and architecture that wouldn’t be out-of-place in a traditional city of the Middle East, to being surrounded by faux-classical European architecture and imagery. Maybe not a bad thing. Diversity. Something for us. 

 So where this all bring us, tourist, the recipients of the project? I hope very close to Skopje. You have to remember that it is one of the most amazing countries in Europe, with magnificent landscape, mountain ranges, canyons (Matka Canyon) and lakes. All that comes at a very affordable price. Public transport is good and very cheap. People are very friendly and possible to interact to in English. Food is absolutely a heaven with a kebab to die for! So yes! Whether the project of 2014 worked or not, we will have to leave it for individual opinion. I think even for the one who are not so keen on it, Macedonia will not be disappointing in any single way. I absolutely loved my time in this Balkan country. I’ve met loads of warm people, and I saw a beauty of the landscape. I am satisfy, happy and richer than the newly build Skopje surrounded architecture.

Postcard from Bosnia and Herzegovina

  Following the footsteps of our one and only Mother Nature, it’s clearly quiet significant that the Balkans are the quintessence of her arty work in Europe. This area notably stands out with their beautifully turquoise colored rivers, that you just want jump in to, amazing high range of mountains, and a clear Adriatic Sea coast. What more would you wish for. The locals surly are aware of the beautiful land, they are very fortunate to live in, as they do mention it on every possible occasion. I personally left my heart in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Rich culture, spread by the different nations, history and still fresh feel of shadow of the violent war from 90s participate in the way Bosnia and Herzegovina looks like today. Thought, most of the cities, like Sarajevo, has been almost fully rebuild, even so well that you can hardly notice sights of any fights, the memories are still held in minds of most of the people who got to witness the horror of those dark days. Yet, locals are happy nova days, cherishing every moment, enjoying the daily life, sharing a smile. Seems for me also that architects had an easy job creating, what you can call, today’s urban panorama trough all the centuries. Designing anything from houses, town halls, churches, to mosques, could just possibly not go wrong in such a magnificent environment. It almost feel like the nature already did most of the work here. The history also made Bosnia and Herzegovina very unique. The influence of the different religions could be spot on every street in every town. The “like-fantasy” medieval castles and fortresses proudly stands next to the Ottoman`s era architecture. It looks like a chest board with just one difference… that all black and white squares, trough some historical conflicts, became to an acceptance, unity, tolerance and friendship? Is it too early to use the last world? Maybe not, not in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and that’s why I loved it.

  Cities and towns are not too busy, not too crowded, people seems less stressed and rushed than western countries. Balkans are still very undiscovered and untouched by mass tourism.sarajevo2.jpg This fact makes it easy to find a peacefulness literally just around the corner. 10 minutes drive from Sarajevo already can bring you to the stunning river side, lake or forest where’s nobody around, just you and the nature. It gives you also the opportunity to listen to the most uncommercial music in the world….the music of nature. Birds, waters, even wind can enhance your experience around this remarkable landscape.

Thought, mentioning the virginity of this part of the Europe, please note that accommodation can be found easily in most of the places in Bosnia. The infrastructure works well too, making it accessible from every neighborhood country or just between domestic towns. Hostels are cute, nice, very clean and affordable even for a budget backpacker. Eating out, whether it is a traditional meal or just a good old pizza, wont make any difference from own cooking, as of a taste and price.  ss.jpgMerchants are very friendly and not pushy whatsoever, they really don’t try to just make money of you. They will be around to help, but also will leave you in peace, giving you some space to look. That makes the whole experience of walking in old towns much nicer. Yet, there is so many cute things from tea pots, glasses, dishes to cloths, so you will be back to your hotel with a full bag. Why not, if you can, it really is 3 times cheaper than in Western Europe, not even mentioning the uniqueness of the staff there. I personally had to thrown away few pairs of jeans and shoes to make a space for the things I purchased there. Well worth it!DSC_0706

Some of the people speak a very good English, the rest can communicate well too. This fact is very important in making connections with locals. You can hear loads of stories about the war that can give you a very good image if these past years. Though, you can clearly see that people moved on, yet they do well remember those bloody, violent, dark days that took so many lives. People went trough a lot, seen a lot and experienced. Hard to believe that western countries turned their back on. Though past shows very well that less resource in the country for benefit, less help you can get. History is the worst teacher ever, I got to know.

  But what the war cannon take is the beauty of the land. Clearly Bosnia and Herzegovina got the most outstanding and most pretty rivers, lakes and hills. What else should I add to convince you to visit this country? I hope nothing. Be happy, appreciate what you have, respect others, travel, if you can, and visit this stunning place that will not disappoint you in any way.

Pretty smile on a dirty street, Guatemala City as seen

   Pretty, clean and safe are not always the values trevellers are looking for. There are a bunch of explorers that wont be easily satisfy with a little umbrella in their cocktail by a swimming pool on a side. Absolutely its noting wrong with that, it is good to rest too, however some people simply just want to see the diverse lifestyle on this planet. They want to discover and sink in a different culture. They want to see how people interact with each other in different, mostly roughest, environment on a daily bases. They want to understand the level of poverty, even crime sometimes. They just don’t want to hide in posh hotels. Yet, interestingly, very often they can find the reliance that goes towards the same direction. Poor, dangerous with friendship and love. Being in Kathmandu during the earthquake in 2015, I saw how Nepalese helped each other, I saw how French fire brigade had a breakfast for 4h, then going out to take some photos. I am not saying they did nothing, but way more could be done from them. I wonder why is that? I guess I need still to see more to, maybe, understand.

 

  But coming back to the title, I definitely would recommend visiting Guatemala City, and Central America in general, especially for group of trevellers, I mentioned at the beginning of this post, and to everyone really. Spearing this time to write what to see or eat, and where to stay, I will just say that you will enjoy no matter what, like I did.

 

 

One funny trip to High Atlas Mountains in Morocco

Marrakesh is absolutely wonderful, vibrant, colourful, and filled with culture all around, that wants to grab you and never let go. But please, keep in your mind that there are even greater things to see around. Along with magnificent cost line, you can hike one of the highest range of African mountains, and even visit the desert. All three mentioned places are definitely worth seeing, so please, if possible, do add maybe one or two days to extend your stay in this country, trying not to just concentrate on Marrakesh city. Definitely a strong recommendation from me is to buy few trips while in any city really. I guess, adding that they all are at a very affordable price may count too for a budget travellers. One day trip, that include transport and usually guide, can cost as little as 30$. Here, please take my advice to carefully recheck what is covered in the price. Some agencies do not include some entrance fees, and they wont inform you, if you don`t ask.

But coming back to the title of this post, I did book two tours. One to hike High Atlas and second to see the desert. The first one was definitely very different from the casual ones, I’ve ever had before. Why?

The following day of my trip I woke up with a very high temperature, very unwell with a sore throat. Kind of a thing you can expect when coming during late November from a cold Europe to a country wormed up to 28-30C. Despite being sick and not really up for hiking, I decided to go anyway. It was agreed that transport will pick me up from my hotel at 8.30. So, ready, I was waiting, then waiting a little bit more, then It was already 9.30. I got worried a bit, but I gave another 30 minutes to wait (I guess, I like to wait;), then I called agency to ask what on earth is going on, how could they forget about looovelly Annaaa from Poooland. Well, yes, they kinda did. Agent was very apologetic, and he said that somebody is coming back to pick me up in 10 minutes. Ok then, I thought, I will wait. After 10 minutes a man came and told me to fallow him, so I did. He took me to the cafe shop where 2 Moroccans were sitting, then he announce to me that I will go with them. I asked-ok, so we will catch up with the rest of the group? He said no, they are gone already, we will go alone. I said – no, I am not coming alone with you – but they were pressuring me that its ok, and we will go alone, I mean me and two of them…in their private old car. I recon, it’s because of my high temperature, I agreed. As soon as we headed off, I wasn’t sure If I will be alive by tomorrow, was scared and couldn’t understand why I did agree.

So what happened after? Nothing really. I’ve had the most wonderful private day trip and hike. Definitely one of the best tours, I have ever booked. Apart from the fact that as the only one I was in control of where will we stop and for how long, I’ve had a private guide while hiking Mountains. Here, I have to say hello to him, as my guide was so so nice to me, adapting the speed, of quieted difficult hike on rocks, to my speed, and the way I felt that day. Thought, as female solo, better not to fallow what I ve done, as you never know, this trip came as one of the coolest. We chatted a lot, so I’ve had a chance to learn about current political issues, economy and general lifestyle in Morocco. Please see my photos of this, scary at first, amazing at the and, day trip around Magnificent range of African mountains.