Day tour around Sofia

  Everyone of us, or at least most, do some itinerary before traveling. Its is always a significant question on the length of stay in each place, especially for a first-time visitors.  Capitals, as usually the biggest cites in the country, are no estrange to that doubt. Many of them in Europe vary from Barcelona, where you can stay for weeks, to smaller ones, where you can discover the place in just even less than few days, and feel satisfy. Good internet research always help to plan your trip better. And here I come with my blog post to answer that questions about one capital in Europe.

 

So where are we this time? Sophia, a capital of Bulgaria, a magnificent, and massively underrated (!), country, with stunning mountain range Vitosha, that is a volcanic mountain massif on the outskirts of the capital, visible literally all around from the city. Vitosha is one of the symbols of this city and the closest site for hiking and skiing. However, when it comes to Sofia, and as much as I loved Bulgaria myself, I can not say that capital itself offers a lot. One day is all you need to discover the place. I would even suggest going to see Rila Monastery in the morning and do the sight-seen after. All could be done in one day. Most of the major attractions are very close by, almost all located on one street. If you are staying in the city center area, you can start your tour from Ancient Complex Serdica, site situated just above the Serdika metro station, that displays the remains of the Roman city.

 

There is also a History Museum to see. Just 2 mins away you can see a Rotonda st. George, The Church of St George is an Early Christian red brick rotunda that is considered the oldest building in Sofia.

Now heading forward on pl. Knyaz Aleksandar, you can visit Ethnographic Museum (showcasing folk costumes & regional art & artifacts) and Russian Church. A bit further, on a left hand side, you can visit a stunning Alexander Nevski Cathedral. Built in Neo-Byzantine style serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria, and it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of the symbols of the Sofia and a primary tourist attraction. Heading more towards Crystal Palace, you can see on the way a building of a National Assembly.

 

Close by National Stadium, called Vasil Levski, could be an a attraction too, but to be honest, can be skipped. At the end I would suggest adding a National Palace of Culture, but its located a bit far away. However, can be easily reached by trolley line 1,2,5,8 and 9 just from the Crystal Palace.

This is a main itinerary for Sophia city center. Please keep in your mind that Rila Monastery is a must see place too, so if you want to spend one day around capital, please do add an extra day to see this stunning monastery hidden in a mountains.

That newly old capital, Skopje as Ive seen

 The stream of thoughts can probably come to loads of first time “Skopje arrivers”. I guess I was one of them. This small-sized capital of Macedonia creates an easy and quick access to the city center, so the surrounding architecture can be noticed right away. You may be experiencing thinking that you haven’t seen quiet a capital like this before. What history did not leave, you can always bring back, or can you really? The design of, so called, project Skopje 2014 completely transformed the way city center looks like today. There are loads of stories, loads of reasons behind this “clearly original” change. Big budget got involved too. And there is that sour question at the end: who is this really for? Tourists, as in the first place? It’s not a secret that it is one of the fastest growing industry. How about the locals? How do they find them self around? Maybe a show off, or the way to stand out to bust the tourism. You really have to get to the bottom of all this. The path trough, almost baroque kitsch like drooping richness in a country with not so great economy, may leave you with loads of questions.

 This, once plain, maze of Europe became a place for many neo-classic buildings and bridges along the river. Perhaps too white and too clean structures may turn out way too difficult to help you to get the vibe of past-time travel. Yet, you can’t really say they are not impressive. Shall we be grateful Macedonia is showing us how newly done acropolis possibly looked like for Greeks back in the days? Perhaps. Could be a plus. It can be left only for an individual opinion. But the feeling of fakery is still a bit present. The project has two main aims: to draw in more tourists and to try to reclaim aspects of the country’s history from neighborhood Greece, appealing to the patriotism of many ethnic Macedonians. Walking by the rich bronze statues full of bridges definitely wont make your head to turn away. You gladly will take your camera to photograph the things around. You will see, you will capture and then you will start to think. How? I do not see any problem investing in tourism. I do adore Moroccan king for doing so. And so do Moroccans, as I spoke with many of them. Yet, the King do it differently. He want to keep the culture present, but just making the country more accessible, safe and inviting. But here we have a bit different situation.

We are discussing a country  where 21.5% of the population live below poverty line with minimal wage at 231 Euros. Macedonia is also very vulnerable to economic developments in Europe, with a strong banking and trade ties and dependent on regional integration and progress toward EU membership for continued economic growth. And yet, on another hand we have a government spending loads of public founds. It been known that cost lay somewhere between €200-€500m (depending on who you talk to) and may have resulted in drop in minimal wage. Than we have a beautiful new buildings and statues. Quiet two opposite situations that divided the nations. The project, known as Skopje 2014, instigated by prime minister Nikola Gruevski, is just as questionable and arguably as diverse as it was when first announced.

  Many Macedonians are questioning the scheme’s vast public expense – not to mention its aesthetic qualities. We have also this sticky problem of complete ignorance towards a very large Muslim community, religion and culture that, sadly, did not get to participate in the project. I visited Skopje in March 2017. Being around city center area for few days, I witness anti-government demonstrations on a daily base. Thought, peaceful, yet shouting for attention a lot.  But there’s no doubting it has put the city on the tourist map. 

  Foreign visitors used to come to Skopje primarily to wander around the beautiful Old Bazaar district, with its alleys, mosques and old hilltop fort. But now they can go in less than five minutes from drinking a Turkish coffee among people and architecture that wouldn’t be out-of-place in a traditional city of the Middle East, to being surrounded by faux-classical European architecture and imagery. Maybe not a bad thing. Diversity. Something for us. 

 So where this all bring us, tourist, the recipients of the project? I hope very close to Skopje. You have to remember that it is one of the most amazing countries in Europe, with magnificent landscape, mountain ranges, canyons (Matka Canyon) and lakes. All that comes at a very affordable price. Public transport is good and very cheap. People are very friendly and possible to interact to in English. Food is absolutely a heaven with a kebab to die for! So yes! Whether the project of 2014 worked or not, we will have to leave it for individual opinion. I think even for the one who are not so keen on it, Macedonia will not be disappointing in any single way. I absolutely loved my time in this Balkan country. I’ve met loads of warm people, and I saw a beauty of the landscape. I am satisfy, happy and richer than the newly build Skopje surrounded architecture.

Postcard from Bosnia and Herzegovina

  Following the footsteps of our one and only Mother Nature, it’s clearly quiet significant that the Balkans are the quintessence of her arty work in Europe. This area notably stands out with their beautifully turquoise colored rivers, that you just want jump in to, amazing high range of mountains, and a clear Adriatic Sea coast. What more would you wish for. The locals surly are aware of the beautiful land, they are very fortunate to live in, as they do mention it on every possible occasion. I personally left my heart in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Rich culture, spread by the different nations, history and still fresh feel of shadow of the violent war from 90s participate in the way Bosnia and Herzegovina looks like today. Thought, most of the cities, like Sarajevo, has been almost fully rebuild, even so well that you can hardly notice sights of any fights, the memories are still held in minds of most of the people who got to witness the horror of those dark days. Yet, locals are happy nova days, cherishing every moment, enjoying the daily life, sharing a smile. Seems for me also that architects had an easy job creating, what you can call, today’s urban panorama trough all the centuries. Designing anything from houses, town halls, churches, to mosques, could just possibly not go wrong in such a magnificent environment. It almost feel like the nature already did most of the work here. The history also made Bosnia and Herzegovina very unique. The influence of the different religions could be spot on every street in every town. The “like-fantasy” medieval castles and fortresses proudly stands next to the Ottoman`s era architecture. It looks like a chest board with just one difference… that all black and white squares, trough some historical conflicts, became to an acceptance, unity, tolerance and friendship? Is it too early to use the last world? Maybe not, not in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and that’s why I loved it.

  Cities and towns are not too busy, not too crowded, people seems less stressed and rushed than western countries. Balkans are still very undiscovered and untouched by mass tourism.sarajevo2.jpg This fact makes it easy to find a peacefulness literally just around the corner. 10 minutes drive from Sarajevo already can bring you to the stunning river side, lake or forest where’s nobody around, just you and the nature. It gives you also the opportunity to listen to the most uncommercial music in the world….the music of nature. Birds, waters, even wind can enhance your experience around this remarkable landscape.

Thought, mentioning the virginity of this part of the Europe, please note that accommodation can be found easily in most of the places in Bosnia. The infrastructure works well too, making it accessible from every neighborhood country or just between domestic towns. Hostels are cute, nice, very clean and affordable even for a budget backpacker. Eating out, whether it is a traditional meal or just a good old pizza, wont make any difference from own cooking, as of a taste and price.  ss.jpgMerchants are very friendly and not pushy whatsoever, they really don’t try to just make money of you. They will be around to help, but also will leave you in peace, giving you some space to look. That makes the whole experience of walking in old towns much nicer. Yet, there is so many cute things from tea pots, glasses, dishes to cloths, so you will be back to your hotel with a full bag. Why not, if you can, it really is 3 times cheaper than in Western Europe, not even mentioning the uniqueness of the staff there. I personally had to thrown away few pairs of jeans and shoes to make a space for the things I purchased there. Well worth it!DSC_0706

Some of the people speak a very good English, the rest can communicate well too. This fact is very important in making connections with locals. You can hear loads of stories about the war that can give you a very good image if these past years. Though, you can clearly see that people moved on, yet they do well remember those bloody, violent, dark days that took so many lives. People went trough a lot, seen a lot and experienced. Hard to believe that western countries turned their back on. Though past shows very well that less resource in the country for benefit, less help you can get. History is the worst teacher ever, I got to know.

  But what the war cannon take is the beauty of the land. Clearly Bosnia and Herzegovina got the most outstanding and most pretty rivers, lakes and hills. What else should I add to convince you to visit this country? I hope nothing. Be happy, appreciate what you have, respect others, travel, if you can, and visit this stunning place that will not disappoint you in any way.

Pretty smile on a dirty street, Guatemala City as seen

   Pretty, clean and safe are not always the values trevellers are looking for. There are a bunch of explorers that wont be easily satisfy with a little umbrella in their cocktail by a swimming pool on a side. Absolutely its noting wrong with that, it is good to rest too, however some people simply just want to see the diverse lifestyle on this planet. They want to discover and sink in a different culture. They want to see how people interact with each other in different, mostly roughest, environment on a daily bases. They want to understand the level of poverty, even crime sometimes. They just don’t want to hide in posh hotels. Yet, interestingly, very often they can find the reliance that goes towards the same direction. Poor, dangerous with friendship and love. Being in Kathmandu during the earthquake in 2015, I saw how Nepalese helped each other, I saw how French fire brigade had a breakfast for 4h, then going out to take some photos. I am not saying they did nothing, but way more could be done from them. I wonder why is that? I guess I need still to see more to, maybe, understand.

 

  But coming back to the title, I definitely would recommend visiting Guatemala City, and Central America in general, especially for group of trevellers, I mentioned at the beginning of this post, and to everyone really. Spearing this time to write what to see or eat, and where to stay, I will just say that you will enjoy no matter what, like I did.

 

 

One funny trip to High Atlas Mountains in Morocco

Marrakesh is absolutely wonderful, vibrant, colourful, and filled with culture all around, that wants to grab you and never let go. But please, keep in your mind that there are even greater things to see around. Along with magnificent cost line, you can hike one of the highest range of African mountains, and even visit the desert. All three mentioned places are definitely worth seeing, so please, if possible, do add maybe one or two days to extend your stay in this country, trying not to just concentrate on Marrakesh city. Definitely a strong recommendation from me is to buy few trips while in any city really. I guess, adding that they all are at a very affordable price may count too for a budget travellers. One day trip, that include transport and usually guide, can cost as little as 30$. Here, please take my advice to carefully recheck what is covered in the price. Some agencies do not include some entrance fees, and they wont inform you, if you don`t ask.

But coming back to the title of this post, I did book two tours. One to hike High Atlas and second to see the desert. The first one was definitely very different from the casual ones, I’ve ever had before. Why?

The following day of my trip I woke up with a very high temperature, very unwell with a sore throat. Kind of a thing you can expect when coming during late November from a cold Europe to a country wormed up to 28-30C. Despite being sick and not really up for hiking, I decided to go anyway. It was agreed that transport will pick me up from my hotel at 8.30. So, ready, I was waiting, then waiting a little bit more, then It was already 9.30. I got worried a bit, but I gave another 30 minutes to wait (I guess, I like to wait;), then I called agency to ask what on earth is going on, how could they forget about looovelly Annaaa from Poooland. Well, yes, they kinda did. Agent was very apologetic, and he said that somebody is coming back to pick me up in 10 minutes. Ok then, I thought, I will wait. After 10 minutes a man came and told me to fallow him, so I did. He took me to the cafe shop where 2 Moroccans were sitting, then he announce to me that I will go with them. I asked-ok, so we will catch up with the rest of the group? He said no, they are gone already, we will go alone. I said – no, I am not coming alone with you – but they were pressuring me that its ok, and we will go alone, I mean me and two of them…in their private old car. I recon, it’s because of my high temperature, I agreed. As soon as we headed off, I wasn’t sure If I will be alive by tomorrow, was scared and couldn’t understand why I did agree.

So what happened after? Nothing really. I’ve had the most wonderful private day trip and hike. Definitely one of the best tours, I have ever booked. Apart from the fact that as the only one I was in control of where will we stop and for how long, I’ve had a private guide while hiking Mountains. Here, I have to say hello to him, as my guide was so so nice to me, adapting the speed, of quieted difficult hike on rocks, to my speed, and the way I felt that day. Thought, as female solo, better not to fallow what I ve done, as you never know, this trip came as one of the coolest. We chatted a lot, so I’ve had a chance to learn about current political issues, economy and general lifestyle in Morocco. Please see my photos of this, scary at first, amazing at the and, day trip around Magnificent range of African mountains.

Funny things we have learned from backpacking

Alright, buckle up, buttercups, because we’re about to embark on a whirlwind tour of… well, travel! Prepare your funny bones and your passports, because this blog post is about to get as lost as your luggage.

Travel: The Art of Being Wrong in a Foreign Country (and Loving It)

So, you’ve decided to travel? Congratulations! You’ve officially signed up for a masterclass in miscommunication, questionable street food, and the eternal quest for a decent Wi-Fi signal.

First things first: Pack light. (Said no traveler ever.) Seriously, though, try to resist the urge to bring your entire wardrobe. You’ll end up lugging a suitcase the size of a small car, and trust me, that’s not a good look when you’re trying to navigate cobblestone streets.

Next, embrace the chaos. Getting lost is practically a rite of passage. Consider it an opportunity to discover hidden gems, practice your charades with locals, and maybe, just maybe, stumble upon the world’s best gelato. (It’s a real possibility, folks.)

Language barriers? They’re your new best friend. Learn a few basic phrases, butcher them with gusto, and prepare for a lot of laughter. The locals will appreciate the effort, even if you’re ordering “two pizzas and a goat” instead of “two pizzas and a Coke.”

Food: Be adventurous! Try everything! (Except maybe that suspicious-looking thing from the street vendor. Use your judgment.) You’ll discover flavors that will blow your mind (and possibly your digestive system).

Finally, remember to relax and enjoy the ride. Travel is messy, unpredictable, and often hilarious. So, go forth, explore, and make memories that will last a lifetime… or at least until your next Instagram post. Happy travels!

Buenos Aires-Uruguay by ferry

 It would be a crime not to pop in to any of Uruguayan cites or towns while in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Especially if you will fallow my way of thinking: “common, you may not have this occasion in your life again”. Visiting close by Uruguay is well easy and well possible, but that, of course, if you have some spare time. There are few available options of transportation to get there from Buenos Aires. Apart from the bus, that can take you everywhere in South America, you can fly (very expensive and a bit pointless) or just take a ferry. Here, we will look in to the last mentioned option, simply because I used it for my one day trip to Uruguay, to Colonia del Sacramento specifically. Ferry, apart from being nice option for a trip, can be a great way to move to your next location while travelling around South America. I guess buses are the cheapest option, and there is loads of info about timetables and prices online, so I will just concentrate on the water-path. The ship, as a way quicker option than bus, can be also a great break from bus traveling, as if you are backpacking, like I did, you will be spending loads of time in them, I mean looooads.

 So basically, you can choose between two kind of trips (places) you can reach by ferry. First one will take you all the way to Montevideo, capital of Uruguay. Second, to Colonia del Sacramento, a cute, quiet and small colonial town by the cost. As stated before, I took a trip to Colonia, but definitely would pick Montevideo over now. You can also see both, if you have time of course, as from Colonia you can catch a bus to capital that takes just 3 hours of journey. Please note that these companies do operate between other towns and cities, but Montevideo and Colonia are, in my opinion, best one to see.

Companies, service and routes

 The Buenos Aires – Montevideo or Colonia del Sacramento ferry route is currently operated by 3 companies. The Buquebus service runs up to 13 times per week, while the Colonia Express service runs up to 3 times per day. The Seacat company is the third option to choose from.

Buquebus provides two services to Colonia del Sacramento – one faster and more expensive, and the other is slower and therefore cheaper. The faster Buquebus catamaran ferry (1h15mins) is usually quite crowded with day tours and travel groups.IMG_2588 Cheaper prices are well possible to find when booking in advance and online. The fast boats have a free wireless internet. The slower boat takes about 3 hours, and it is the one I took. However, checking now the web page, I can no longer find this service. Shame, I really loved my 3 hours on the endless sea. Both kind of boats have a restaurant, cafe and an off duty shops. Buenos Aires to Montevideo service takes 2h15mins and arrives at the Ciudad Vieja district of Montevideo, situated very close to the downtown. Terminal (dock) is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same as for Seacat).

Colonia Express takes roughly 1h to reach Colonia and 3h45mins to reach Montevideo. There is no wifi provided, but there is a duty-free shop and a small bar selling snacks and coffees. Terminal (dock) is located at Av. Elvira Rawson de Dellepiane 155, Puerto Madero Sur, Buenos Aires.

Seacat ferry to Montevideo takes 4h15mins, to Colonia – 1h. Termina is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same as for Buquebus).

Prices as of July 2017

Busquebus (webside here) is the most expensive and offers one way economy class ticket to Montevideo from 93$. However, return ticket starts at 43$ (can’t believe I picked this company!). Day trip to Colonia cost around 80$ (same day return) economy class fast 1h15min boat, which doesn’t seems like a great discount, as a single journey starts from 47$.

Colonia Express (website here) offers a day trips (with return the same day) to Colonia that cost from 70$ (the cheapest) up to 115$, depending on time and day. One way to Colonia cost around 38$ in the cheapest economy class. To Montevideo, one way ticket cost around 45$ in the cheapest economy class.

Seacat (webside here) day trip to Colonia (return the same day) ferry cost from 75$ (economy), and it seem to be a steady price. Buenos Aires-Montevideo cost 43$ for one way cheapest economy class.

Buying a ticket

  It is not necessary to pre-book your ticket online, but it can save you some money, and it is a good idea during a holiday when loads of people travel on this route. Buying in advance can also save you some stress, as there might be a long queue to get a ticket just before the departure. As mentioned, you can purchase your ticket online, thought the web page for Busquebus is very poorly designed with a very misleading currencies in dollars. However, if you are not in Buenos Aires, it is best to book and buy online before the departure. My hostel was very close to the Busquebus terminal, so I just walked there, and I bought a ticket at the agent located inside. I can’t say stuff speaks well English, but we closed the deal without any major hassle. You can pay by cash or card, and as far as I remember, I purchased a day return the cheapest option to Colonia (3h of journey each way) and I paid around 70-80$ in total (December 2015).

Remember to check-in

  Please do remember that this is an international journey that required you to check-in at the doc with your passport and bag, if you have one. Same as at the airport, you will have to get in a queue lane towards your check-in desk. You should also be at the terminal at least an hour and a half before the departure for immigration purposes etc. Your passport will be checked, but you will get stamped after check-in, but before waiting area. I can’t remember seeing off duty shops there, but they are at the ferry, with a very good prices, especially for cosmetics. Liquor is also available to purchase.

Time change

 Please do keep in you mind that a time difference between Uruguay and Argentina, with Uruguay being ahead, is one hour. Important to know the proper return departure time. I wasn`t aware of it, and I arrived at the dock an hour ahead, when I could enjoy the Colonial old town longer.

Last tips

  • Argentinian pesos are widely used in Colonia. I paid in the restaurant by them for my bill.
  • Very cute touristic old town in Colonia by the cost is easily accessible just on food, so no need to take a taxi.
  • For a budget backpacker is better to get your own food and take with, as restaurants in Uruguay are very expensive, with pizzas and burgers starting at 10$, as the cheapest option. You can get a snack with you for the time of journey too, as again, restaurant inside the ferry is very pricey and, to be honest, not the best one.
  • 3-4 hours is more than enough to visit Colonia del Sacramento.
  • If you plan to pick Montevideo over Colonia del Sacramento, which I really think is a better option, you need to stay a minimum of one night in capital to do a proper city-seeing, unless going very early, returning with the last service.

  • Please consider buying a ticket in advance for weekends and the peak season (Christmas until the end of February).

Tikal, then back to the future

  Seeing three, planned just one. Who and how? Me to visit not one, but three major ancient remaining sides of a magnificent Mayans (Tikal), Incas (Machu Picchu) and Aztecs (Teotihuacan) empires. Pretty great thing for someone who always was interested in archaeology. As a great Star Wars fan too, along with discovering the ruins, I could put my foot on one of the locations used in Episode IV and Rogue One movie. Day tour to Tikal definitely was one of favourite days in Guatemala. Despite the fact that I took an organised tour, it still felt very adventurous walking in the jungle discovering structure by structure, temple by temple. Hiking some of them, and finally finishing the whole tour by watching the disappearance of the sun in to the rain forest above, from the highest Mayan`s construction on the side. Remainings, in combination with Tikal`s remote location, create a mysterious atmosphere that only few other Mayan sites possess. These temples signify are one of the most important Mayan cities that dominated much of the Mayas world politically, economically, and militarily for centuries. The impressive structures lie scattered around the area. Today, many ruins are still covered by jungle. Tikal is just spectacular with their mystery labyrinth of limestone structures. You can wander around for hours. From a grassy central plaza alone through palace courtyards and bedrooms, or scramble up the north acropolis, with its jumble of temples, stumpy, pillar-shaped altars and carved-stone stellar, some with hieroglyphs still visible.

 The side is best enjoyed as an organised trip. They are very affordable at just 10-15$ for a day tour to Tikal, and that includes transport and guide. The ticket to the side cost around 20$. Having a tour guide, in my opinion and in this case, is very important, otherwise you can miss on loads of information. It is also good to hear the history from local blood. You will be given enough time at area to properly look around and discover the park. Trip can be book in most of the hostels/hotels and tour agents. Flores is just full of them, and prices, as well as trips, are very similar, so no point to look around for too long. You can either book an early morning one, or an afternoon one. The first trip offers experiencing a raising sun over the park, but please note that it is watchable from the last and biggest temple, so I really think its best to leave it to the end. Not even mentioning that you will have to get up very early, and the price is also way higher. The afternoon option offers watching a sunset, so you will basically spend a time at the side, walking around the jungle, discovering loads of temples and structures, to finally finish at the biggest one, waiting for the beautiful time of even more beautiful sun disappearing in to magnificent panorama of temples and rain forest. I really suggest to book this trip, unless of course you have to rush. However, if you prefer to do it alone, you can catch a bus that goes there. Regular second class buses leave from the Santa Elena (located south from the Flores island) bus station to Tikal at 06:00, 06:30, 07:00, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30, 12:30, 13:00 and 15:00 arriving two hours later. It cost around 4$. A bus will stop in Tikal between 16:00 and 16:30 and continue onward to Uaxactún. The local buses do not run on Sundays. Beware about buying a round trip ticket from “Exploradores de la Cultura Maya” from the Santa Elena bus station as they may sell you a return ticket for a bus that doesn’t exist. The park’s main gate opens at 06:00, and officially closes at 18:00. Good advise is to take with you as much water as possible, 2-3 liters, before entering. I don’t think I have to explain you how hot is in this part of the world, not even mentioning that you will spend about 5-6 hours at the side, climbing some high temples. There are no shops inside, only, if you’re lucky, one man got a stand next to the highest, and last (!), temple with some drinks to sell. Whatever way you will choose, the main thing is to visit Tikal! It is a number one attraction in Guatemala, kind of a “Machu Piccu” of Central America. It is really amazing to discover how the pyramids were build, along with other structures, hidden in the jungle. To experience and access the ancient world. Its like going back in the past, but without DeLorean and a crazy doc.3101