Athens in photos
Tag: Backpacking
Pretty smile on a dirty street, Guatemala City as seen
Pretty, clean and safe are not always the values trevellers are looking for. There are a bunch of explorers that wont be easily satisfy with a little umbrella in their cocktail by a swimming pool on a side. Absolutely its noting wrong with that, it is good to rest too, however some people simply just want to see the diverse lifestyle on this planet. They want to discover and sink in a different culture. They want to see how people interact with each other in different, mostly roughest, environment on a daily bases. They want to understand the level of poverty, even crime sometimes. They just don’t want to hide in posh hotels. Yet, interestingly, very often they can find the reliance that goes towards the same direction. Poor, dangerous with friendship and love. Being in Kathmandu during the earthquake in 2015, I saw how Nepalese helped each other, I saw how French fire brigade had a breakfast for 4h, then going out to take some photos. I am not saying they did nothing, but way more could be done from them. I wonder why is that? I guess I need still to see more to, maybe, understand.
But coming back to the title, I definitely would recommend visiting Guatemala City, and Central America in general, especially for group of trevellers, I mentioned at the beginning of this post, and to everyone really. Spearing this time to write what to see or eat, and where to stay, I will just say that you will enjoy no matter what, like I did.
One funny trip to High Atlas Mountains in Morocco
Marrakesh is absolutely wonderful, vibrant, colourful, and filled with culture all around, that wants to grab you and never let go. But please, keep in your mind that there are even greater things to see around. Along with magnificent cost line, you can hike one of the highest range of African mountains, and even visit the desert. All three mentioned places are definitely worth seeing, so please, if possible, do add maybe one or two days to extend your stay in this country, trying not to just concentrate on Marrakesh city. Definitely a strong recommendation from me is to buy few trips while in any city really. I guess, adding that they all are at a very affordable price may count too for a budget travellers. One day trip, that include transport and usually guide, can cost as little as 30$. Here, please take my advice to carefully recheck what is covered in the price. Some agencies do not include some entrance fees, and they wont inform you, if you don`t ask.
But coming back to the title of this post, I did book two tours. One to hike High Atlas and second to see the desert. The first one was definitely very different from the casual ones, I’ve ever had before. Why?
The following day of my trip I woke up with a very high temperature, very unwell with a sore throat. Kind of a thing you can expect when coming during late November from a cold Europe to a country wormed up to 28-30C. Despite being sick and not really up for hiking, I decided to go anyway. It was agreed that transport will pick me up from my hotel at 8.30. So, ready, I was waiting, then waiting a little bit more, then It was already 9.30. I got worried a bit, but I gave another 30 minutes to wait (I guess, I like to wait;), then I called agency to ask what on earth is going on, how could they forget about looovelly Annaaa from Poooland. Well, yes, they kinda did. Agent was very apologetic, and he said that somebody is coming back to pick me up in 10 minutes. Ok then, I thought, I will wait. After 10 minutes a man came and told me to fallow him, so I did. He took me to the cafe shop where 2 Moroccans were sitting, then he announce to me that I will go with them. I asked-ok, so we will catch up with the rest of the group? He said no, they are gone already, we will go alone. I said – no, I am not coming alone with you – but they were pressuring me that its ok, and we will go alone, I mean me and two of them…in their private old car. I recon, it’s because of my high temperature, I agreed. As soon as we headed off, I wasn’t sure If I will be alive by tomorrow, was scared and couldn’t understand why I did agree.
So what happened after? Nothing really. I’ve had the most wonderful private day trip and hike. Definitely one of the best tours, I have ever booked. Apart from the fact that as the only one I was in control of where will we stop and for how long, I’ve had a private guide while hiking Mountains. Here, I have to say hello to him, as my guide was so so nice to me, adapting the speed, of quieted difficult hike on rocks, to my speed, and the way I felt that day. Thought, as female solo, better not to fallow what I ve done, as you never know, this trip came as one of the coolest. We chatted a lot, so I’ve had a chance to learn about current political issues, economy and general lifestyle in Morocco. Please see my photos of this, scary at first, amazing at the and, day trip around Magnificent range of African mountains.
Costarican beach in Puerto Viejo in photos
Funny things we have learned from backpacking
Alright, buckle up, buttercups, because we’re about to embark on a whirlwind tour of… well, travel! Prepare your funny bones and your passports, because this blog post is about to get as lost as your luggage.
Travel: The Art of Being Wrong in a Foreign Country (and Loving It)
So, you’ve decided to travel? Congratulations! You’ve officially signed up for a masterclass in miscommunication, questionable street food, and the eternal quest for a decent Wi-Fi signal.
First things first: Pack light. (Said no traveler ever.) Seriously, though, try to resist the urge to bring your entire wardrobe. You’ll end up lugging a suitcase the size of a small car, and trust me, that’s not a good look when you’re trying to navigate cobblestone streets.
Next, embrace the chaos. Getting lost is practically a rite of passage. Consider it an opportunity to discover hidden gems, practice your charades with locals, and maybe, just maybe, stumble upon the world’s best gelato. (It’s a real possibility, folks.)
Language barriers? They’re your new best friend. Learn a few basic phrases, butcher them with gusto, and prepare for a lot of laughter. The locals will appreciate the effort, even if you’re ordering “two pizzas and a goat” instead of “two pizzas and a Coke.”
Food: Be adventurous! Try everything! (Except maybe that suspicious-looking thing from the street vendor. Use your judgment.) You’ll discover flavors that will blow your mind (and possibly your digestive system).
Finally, remember to relax and enjoy the ride. Travel is messy, unpredictable, and often hilarious. So, go forth, explore, and make memories that will last a lifetime… or at least until your next Instagram post. Happy travels!
Buenos Aires-Uruguay by ferry
It would be a crime not to pop in to any of Uruguayan cites or towns while in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Especially if you will fallow my way of thinking: “common, you may not have this occasion in your life again”. Visiting close by Uruguay is well easy and well possible, but that, of course, if you have some spare time. There are few available options of transportation to get there from Buenos Aires. Apart from the bus, that can take you everywhere in South America, you can fly (very expensive and a bit pointless) or just take a ferry. Here, we will look in to the last mentioned option, simply because I used it for my one day trip to Uruguay, to Colonia del Sacramento specifically. Ferry, apart from being nice option for a trip, can be a great way to move to your next location while travelling around South America. I guess buses are the cheapest option, and there is loads of info about timetables and prices online, so I will just concentrate on the water-path. The ship, as a way quicker option than bus, can be also a great break from bus traveling, as if you are backpacking, like I did, you will be spending loads of time in them, I mean looooads.
So basically, you can choose between two kind of trips (places) you can reach by ferry. First one will take you all the way to Montevideo, capital of Uruguay. Second, to Colonia del Sacramento, a cute, quiet and small colonial town by the cost. As stated before, I took a trip to Colonia, but definitely would pick Montevideo over now. You can also see both, if you have time of course, as from Colonia you can catch a bus to capital that takes just 3 hours of journey. Please note that these companies do operate between other towns and cities, but Montevideo and Colonia are, in my opinion, best one to see.
Companies, service and routes
The Buenos Aires – Montevideo or Colonia del Sacramento ferry route is currently operated by 3 companies. The Buquebus service runs up to 13 times per week, while the Colonia Express service runs up to 3 times per day. The Seacat company is the third option to choose from.
Buquebus provides two services to Colonia del Sacramento – one faster and more expensive, and the other is slower and therefore cheaper. The faster Buquebus catamaran ferry (1h15mins) is usually quite crowded with day tours and travel groups.
Cheaper prices are well possible to find when booking in advance and online. The fast boats have a free wireless internet. The slower boat takes about 3 hours, and it is the one I took. However, checking now the web page, I can no longer find this service. Shame, I really loved my 3 hours on the endless sea. Both kind of boats have a restaurant, cafe and an off duty shops. Buenos Aires to Montevideo service takes 2h15mins and arrives at the Ciudad Vieja district of Montevideo, situated very close to the downtown. Terminal (dock) is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same as for Seacat).
Colonia Express takes roughly 1h to reach Colonia and 3h45mins to reach Montevideo. There is no wifi provided, but there is a duty-free shop and a small bar selling snacks and coffees. Terminal (dock) is located at Av. Elvira Rawson de Dellepiane 155, Puerto Madero Sur, Buenos Aires.
Seacat ferry to Montevideo takes 4h15mins, to Colonia – 1h. Termina is located at Antártida Argentina 821, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (same as for Buquebus).
Prices as of July 2017
Busquebus (webside here) is the most expensive and offers one way economy class ticket to Montevideo from 93$. However, return ticket starts at 43$ (can’t believe I picked this company!). Day trip to Colonia cost around 80$ (same day return) economy class fast 1h15min boat, which doesn’t seems like a great discount, as a single journey starts from 47$.
Colonia Express (website here) offers a day trips (with return the same day) to Colonia that cost from 70$ (the cheapest) up to 115$, depending on time and day. One way to Colonia cost around 38$ in the cheapest economy class. To Montevideo, one way ticket cost around 45$ in the cheapest economy class.
Seacat (webside here) day trip to Colonia (return the same day) ferry cost from 75$ (economy), and it seem to be a steady price. Buenos Aires-Montevideo cost 43$ for one way cheapest economy class.
Buying a ticket
It is not necessary to pre-book your ticket online, but it can save you some money, and it is a good idea during a holiday when loads of people travel on this route. Buying in advance can also save you some stress, as there might be a long queue to get a ticket just before the departure. As mentioned, you can purchase your ticket online, thought the web page for Busquebus is very poorly designed with a very misleading currencies in dollars. However, if you are not in Buenos Aires, it is best to book and buy online before the departure. My hostel was very close to the Busquebus terminal, so I just walked there, and I bought a ticket at the agent located inside. I can’t say stuff speaks well English, but we closed the deal without any major hassle. You can pay by cash or card, and as far as I remember, I purchased a day return the cheapest option to Colonia (3h of journey each way) and I paid around 70-80$ in total (December 2015).
Remember to check-in
Please do remember that this is an international journey that required you to check-in at the doc with your passport and bag, if you have one. Same as at the airport, you will have to get in a queue lane towards your check-in desk. You should also be at the terminal at least an hour and a half before the departure for immigration purposes etc. Your passport will be checked, but you will get stamped after check-in, but before waiting area. I can’t remember seeing off duty shops there, but they are at the ferry, with a very good prices, especially for cosmetics. Liquor is also available to purchase.
Time change
Please do keep in you mind that a time difference between Uruguay and Argentina, with Uruguay being ahead, is one hour. Important to know the proper return departure time. I wasn`t aware of it, and I arrived at the dock an hour ahead, when I could enjoy the Colonial old town longer.
Last tips
- Argentinian pesos are widely used in Colonia. I paid in the restaurant by them for my bill.
- Very cute touristic old town in Colonia by the cost is easily accessible just on food, so no need to take a taxi.
- For a budget backpacker is better to get your own food and take with, as restaurants in Uruguay are very expensive, with pizzas and burgers starting at 10$, as the cheapest option. You can get a snack with you for the time of journey too, as again, restaurant inside the ferry is very pricey and, to be honest, not the best one.
- 3-4 hours is more than enough to visit Colonia del Sacramento.
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If you plan to pick Montevideo over Colonia del Sacramento, which I really think is a better option, you need to stay a minimum of one night in capital to do a proper city-seeing, unless going very early, returning with the last service.
- Please consider buying a ticket in advance for weekends and the peak season (Christmas until the end of February).
Tikal, then back to the future
Seeing three, planned just one. Who and how? Me to visit not one, but three major ancient remaining sides of a magnificent Mayans (Tikal), Incas (Machu Picchu) and Aztecs (Teotihuacan) empires. Pretty great thing for someone who always was interested in archaeology. As a great Star Wars fan too, along with discovering the ruins, I could put my foot on one of the locations used in Episode IV and Rogue One movie. Day tour to Tikal definitely was one of favourite days in Guatemala. Despite the fact that I took an organised tour, it still felt very adventurous walking in the jungle discovering structure by structure, temple by temple. Hiking some of them, and finally finishing the whole tour by watching the disappearance of the sun in to the rain forest above, from the highest Mayan`s construction on the side. Remainings, in combination with Tikal`s remote location, create a mysterious atmosphere that only few other Mayan sites possess. These temples signify are one of the most important Mayan cities that dominated much of the Mayas world politically, economically, and militarily for centuries. The impressive structures lie scattered around the area. Today, many ruins are still covered by jungle. Tikal is just spectacular with their mystery labyrinth of limestone structures. You can wander around for hours. From a grassy central plaza alone through palace courtyards and bedrooms, or scramble up the north acropolis, with its jumble of temples, stumpy, pillar-shaped altars and carved-stone stellar, some with hieroglyphs still visible.
The side is best enjoyed as an organised trip. They are very affordable at just 10-15$ for a day tour to Tikal, and that includes transport and guide. The ticket to the side cost around 20$. Having a tour guide, in my opinion and in this case, is very important, otherwise you can miss on loads of information. It is also good to hear the history from local blood. You will be given enough time at area to properly look around and discover the park. Trip can be book in most of the hostels/hotels and tour agents. Flores is just full of them, and prices, as well as trips, are very similar, so no point to look around for too long. You can either book an early morning one, or an afternoon one. The first trip offers experiencing a raising sun over the park, but please note that it is watchable from the last and biggest temple, so I really think its best to leave it to the end. Not even mentioning that you will have to get up very early, and the price is also way higher. The afternoon option offers watching a sunset, so you will basically spend a time at the side, walking around the jungle, discovering loads of temples and structures, to finally finish at the biggest one, waiting for the beautiful time of even more beautiful sun disappearing in to magnificent panorama of temples and rain forest. I really suggest to book this trip, unless of course you have to rush. However, if you prefer to do it alone, you can catch a bus that goes there. Regular second class buses leave from the Santa Elena (located south from the Flores island) bus station to Tikal at 06:00, 06:30, 07:00, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30, 12:30, 13:00 and 15:00 arriving two hours later. It cost around 4$. A bus will stop in Tikal between 16:00 and 16:30 and continue onward to Uaxactún. The local buses do not run on Sundays. Beware about buying a round trip ticket from “Exploradores de la Cultura Maya” from the Santa Elena bus station as they may sell you a return ticket for a bus that doesn’t exist. The park’s main gate opens at 06:00, and officially closes at 18:00. Good advise is to take with you as much water as possible, 2-3 liters, before entering. I don’t think I have to explain you how hot is in this part of the world, not even mentioning that you will spend about 5-6 hours at the side, climbing some high temples. There are no shops inside, only, if you’re lucky, one man got a stand next to the highest, and last (!), temple with some drinks to sell. Whatever way you will choose, the main thing is to visit Tikal! It is a number one attraction in Guatemala, kind of a “Machu Piccu” of Central America. It is really amazing to discover how the pyramids were build, along with other structures, hidden in the jungle. To experience and access the ancient world. Its like going back in the past, but without DeLorean and a crazy doc.
Say hello to my little friend
Learning salsa, visiting places, meeting new people, chatting with locals, enjoying night life. My time in Colombia was definitely beyond my expectations and came as a highlight. I just wish I could have more time to spend there. As just of my 12 days slot before flying to Panama, I could only see Cali and Bogotá. Sadly, I had to skip Medellin, the city I always wanted to visit. However, I`ve had enough time to absolutely fall in love with locals. They charmed me with their kindness, passion for dance, music and general love for life. Thought, Latino are well known for being very enthusiastic about dance and music, yet they still managed to surprised me how much they really do love it, and how important it is in their lives. And here we are in Cali, the city where salsa is coming from. Walking around, high on a coffee, I was able to truly discover this, once one of the most dangerous in the world, city. I saw people enjoying their life, dancing on the streets, being always surrounded by the music that could be heard from cars, houses, phones, cd players, literally from every corner. You really have to try hard to find a quiet place there. So many things happen always around, leisure areas are usually full of people. This can be hardly found in busy western countries that seems so grey next to colourful and vibrant Colombia. I met loads of local friends there along with other travellers. Not surprisingly, they all said that Colombia was one of the best destinations of their backpacking trips. I am just hoping, I will go back to to this country. There is still so much to experience and discover for me. Hopefully one day…
My highlights
- Enjoying live events in Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz.
- Watching Colombians dance salsa on the street.
- Lunch in mercado with just locals.
- Late night in Salsa Club, where I learned to dance it.
- Starting every morning with the best coffee in the world.
- Chilling on the hill around San Antonio Church.
- Enjoying rice and beans almost as good as in Brazil.
- Hanging out with Manu Chao crew, as they stayed in my hotel during his tour.
- Few scary night walks back to hotel.
- White rum with Russian version of Jack Sparrow (hello Anton;).
- Sweet bamboo juice.
- Making loads of amazing friends.
Titicaca Lake, Copacabana vs Puno
Holding the title of the highest navigable lake on the planet, as well as on my list of the most beautiful water basins in the world, tucked away high in the Andes between snow-covered peaks, Lake Titicaca is one of the most popular places to see in South America. Known for its unique panorama during the day and the night time, crystal-clear air and water, combine with mountain range around. Believed to be the birthplace of the first Incas, along with the sun, moon and stars, when creator came out of the lake.
The main two bases to explore Lake Titicaca (and other sites in the region) are Puno, in Peru, and Copacabana in Bolivia. I did visit these two mentioned towns, and I stayed a minimum of two nights in each, which gave me some time to look around and discover them. If you’re backpacking and having loads of time, you can stop in both to see the Bolivian and Peruvian side of Titicaca, as they are very different. However, if you’re rushing a bit, I would definitely suggest staying just in Copacabana in Bolivia. Why? Well, for few reasons really. From there, most tour operators run a day trips to the Isla del Sol, with a quick stop at the Isla de la Luna. Bolivian town is way smaller and cutter. Very touristic too, which I don’t always like, but can be handy when it comes to accommodation and organized trips. Lake is looking really amazing (way better) from this side as well, you can hike some mountains around to spot the stunning panorama of the pool and surrounded areas. In Puno the lake side can`t be really accessible properly, there is no beach to sit and enjoy, and there’s not so many hills from where you can get a good grip of Titicaca. Having said all that, I loved Puno for its truly Peruvian vibe. There is loads of street food stands around, loads of mercados to grab a very tasty local meal, stand with fresh fruits, vegetables, colorful ladies with coca leafs…everything really.
This can not be found in Copacabana, I was really struggling there to find a proper local food, and once I even ended up ordering a pizza. Not so cool. However, It’s just a food, and I think exploring the lake is the reason we are there in the first place, so again, that points us towards Copacabana over Puno. There is also loads of hotels by the lake (I was lucky to be in one), when in Puno you can hardly find any so close to the water. So I think we have a winner at the end-Copacabana. However, again on another side, Puno hold a very strong argument of having a famous Floating Islands, a must see while there. Yet, I think the trip can be booked from Copacabana too. The other reason (to cheer you up really, if you cant do both) to stay at just one place is the fact that any route you will take to get there, you will be able to have another good look at the lake, as streets are usually around the lake. If you will come from La Paz, like myself, to Copacabana, you will even cross Titicaca on the boat.
Verdict:
Just for the lake and islands Copacabana is a winner, but if you want to feel the true vibe, less touristic place, traditional food and real life more than lake, then Puno is definitely for you!
Either way you will choose, the bottom line is not to skip this place. Trust me, Titicaca will stay in your heart forever.
DIY Machu Picchu as a must choice
Machu Picchu. We all heard this name before. Most popular place in South America, maybe even in the world, that attracts thousands of visitors every week, and my biggest mistake ever.
Arriving at Cuzco already gives you the idea on how many travelers, from all around the world really, do come to see this biggest remaining side of ancient Inca town. Streets of this Peruvian town are just packed with many agencies that offer an organized tours to see Machu Picchu, that include everything. Sounds nice and easy, why not? Well, no. As soon as I arrived at Cuzco, I went to the first agency, I spotted, to buy a 2 days trip. I did not plan on doing so, but as soon as I saw the price, I did. I paid only 95$, and in this price I`ve had a transport, one night in a hotel, ticket to Machu Picchu side, lunch, dinner in the evening and an English-speaking guide. I did some research before on prices, and it was always coming as a 200$ all together, that`s why as soon as I saw the price of 95$, I just booked a trip. The problem was that we have been given only max of 5 hours at the side. This is not enough! You need a whole full day to properly explore it! I did not hike the mountain, I did not go to see the Sun Gate. I didn`t even see the Aguas Calientes, closest village to Machu Picchu, properly. That is a big hole in my heart, and I just do not want you to experience it. Yes, maybe there are some agencies that do offer a 3-4 days trips, where you can spend the whole day at the side. Not a problem then, just book it. Otherwise never book a 2 days tour. Here, remembering planning on getting there myself, I will share with you how to reach Machu yourself.
Step one and most important. Please do book your ticket for Machu Picchu side in advance. Thought, I bought a tour just 3 days before going, I`ve read that it is more difficult for solo visitors to purchase one. You can do it online, and you need your passport to process. Here is a link to click. You can also do it in the office in Cuzco and Aguas Calientes.
Option number one (cheap)
- Lets start from Cuzco, town in Peru, as a nice and easy option to begin, thought very beautiful itself. So take a bus from Cuzco to Santa Maria (towards Quillabamba) as early in the morning as possible. The bus will take 5-6 hours.
- Catch a collective from Santa Maria to Hidroelectrica (an hour of journey).
- From Hidroelectrica just walk following the rails to the town called Aguas Calientes. Shouldn’t take longer than 2.5 hours. Of course you can take a train, but the area around is way to beautiful just to do it.
- Stay minimum for two nights in Aguas Calientes (loads of dorms available).
- Start the scent of Machu Picchu early in the morning. I would say 4-5 am.
- Climb the steps to the entrance and wait in a queue to enter (have a passport with you). Climbing should take around 2 hours. You can also take a 20-minute bus ride that operates every 15 minutes starting at 5:30 a.m. (24$ adult round trip, 12$ child round trip, 12$ one way). Side is open from 6 am till 5 pm.
- Stay there till they will close the door and return to spend another night in Aguas Calientes.
Option number two (most expensive)
- Take a train from Cusco straight to Aguas Calientes. It is quiet expensive, but if you can spare some money, it will be quickest and most convenient option that will take less than 5 hours (1h to Poroy+3.5h in the train). The so-called Cuzco train station is in the nearby town of Poroy. I will take an hour to get from central Cusco to the train station by taxi. Bus is an option as well.
Option number three (the cheapest)
- Take a van/collective from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo (less than an hour of journey).
- Take a van to the Kilometre 82 train station, a 30-minute journey from where you will start walking to Aguas Calientes.
- Walk 30 km to Aguas Calientes, following the rail line. You can take a rail too from there, but the whole path is just amazing, and it should take just less than 8 hours.
Solo female traveller 
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