Postcard from Bosnia and Herzegovina

  Following the footsteps of our one and only Mother Nature, it’s clearly quiet significant that the Balkans are the quintessence of her arty work in Europe. This area notably stands out with their beautifully turquoise colored rivers, that you just want jump in to, amazing high range of mountains, and a clear Adriatic Sea coast. What more would you wish for. The locals surly are aware of the beautiful land, they are very fortunate to live in, as they do mention it on every possible occasion. I personally left my heart in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Rich culture, spread by the different nations, history and still fresh feel of shadow of the violent war from 90s participate in the way Bosnia and Herzegovina looks like today. Thought, most of the cities, like Sarajevo, has been almost fully rebuild, even so well that you can hardly notice sights of any fights, the memories are still held in minds of most of the people who got to witness the horror of those dark days. Yet, locals are happy nova days, cherishing every moment, enjoying the daily life, sharing a smile. Seems for me also that architects had an easy job creating, what you can call, today’s urban panorama trough all the centuries. Designing anything from houses, town halls, churches, to mosques, could just possibly not go wrong in such a magnificent environment. It almost feel like the nature already did most of the work here. The history also made Bosnia and Herzegovina very unique. The influence of the different religions could be spot on every street in every town. The “like-fantasy” medieval castles and fortresses proudly stands next to the Ottoman`s era architecture. It looks like a chest board with just one difference… that all black and white squares, trough some historical conflicts, became to an acceptance, unity, tolerance and friendship? Is it too early to use the last world? Maybe not, not in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and that’s why I loved it.

  Cities and towns are not too busy, not too crowded, people seems less stressed and rushed than western countries. Balkans are still very undiscovered and untouched by mass tourism.sarajevo2.jpg This fact makes it easy to find a peacefulness literally just around the corner. 10 minutes drive from Sarajevo already can bring you to the stunning river side, lake or forest where’s nobody around, just you and the nature. It gives you also the opportunity to listen to the most uncommercial music in the world….the music of nature. Birds, waters, even wind can enhance your experience around this remarkable landscape.

Thought, mentioning the virginity of this part of the Europe, please note that accommodation can be found easily in most of the places in Bosnia. The infrastructure works well too, making it accessible from every neighborhood country or just between domestic towns. Hostels are cute, nice, very clean and affordable even for a budget backpacker. Eating out, whether it is a traditional meal or just a good old pizza, wont make any difference from own cooking, as of a taste and price.  ss.jpgMerchants are very friendly and not pushy whatsoever, they really don’t try to just make money of you. They will be around to help, but also will leave you in peace, giving you some space to look. That makes the whole experience of walking in old towns much nicer. Yet, there is so many cute things from tea pots, glasses, dishes to cloths, so you will be back to your hotel with a full bag. Why not, if you can, it really is 3 times cheaper than in Western Europe, not even mentioning the uniqueness of the staff there. I personally had to thrown away few pairs of jeans and shoes to make a space for the things I purchased there. Well worth it!DSC_0706

Some of the people speak a very good English, the rest can communicate well too. This fact is very important in making connections with locals. You can hear loads of stories about the war that can give you a very good image if these past years. Though, you can clearly see that people moved on, yet they do well remember those bloody, violent, dark days that took so many lives. People went trough a lot, seen a lot and experienced. Hard to believe that western countries turned their back on. Though past shows very well that less resource in the country for benefit, less help you can get. History is the worst teacher ever, I got to know.

  But what the war cannon take is the beauty of the land. Clearly Bosnia and Herzegovina got the most outstanding and most pretty rivers, lakes and hills. What else should I add to convince you to visit this country? I hope nothing. Be happy, appreciate what you have, respect others, travel, if you can, and visit this stunning place that will not disappoint you in any way.

Pretty smile on a dirty street, Guatemala City as seen

   Pretty, clean and safe are not always the values trevellers are looking for. There are a bunch of explorers that wont be easily satisfy with a little umbrella in their cocktail by a swimming pool on a side. Absolutely its noting wrong with that, it is good to rest too, however some people simply just want to see the diverse lifestyle on this planet. They want to discover and sink in a different culture. They want to see how people interact with each other in different, mostly roughest, environment on a daily bases. They want to understand the level of poverty, even crime sometimes. They just don’t want to hide in posh hotels. Yet, interestingly, very often they can find the reliance that goes towards the same direction. Poor, dangerous with friendship and love. Being in Kathmandu during the earthquake in 2015, I saw how Nepalese helped each other, I saw how French fire brigade had a breakfast for 4h, then going out to take some photos. I am not saying they did nothing, but way more could be done from them. I wonder why is that? I guess I need still to see more to, maybe, understand.

 

  But coming back to the title, I definitely would recommend visiting Guatemala City, and Central America in general, especially for group of trevellers, I mentioned at the beginning of this post, and to everyone really. Spearing this time to write what to see or eat, and where to stay, I will just say that you will enjoy no matter what, like I did.

 

 

One funny trip to High Atlas Mountains in Morocco

Marrakesh is absolutely wonderful, vibrant, colourful, and filled with culture all around, that wants to grab you and never let go. But please, keep in your mind that there are even greater things to see around. Along with magnificent cost line, you can hike one of the highest range of African mountains, and even visit the desert. All three mentioned places are definitely worth seeing, so please, if possible, do add maybe one or two days to extend your stay in this country, trying not to just concentrate on Marrakesh city. Definitely a strong recommendation from me is to buy few trips while in any city really. I guess, adding that they all are at a very affordable price may count too for a budget travellers. One day trip, that include transport and usually guide, can cost as little as 30$. Here, please take my advice to carefully recheck what is covered in the price. Some agencies do not include some entrance fees, and they wont inform you, if you don`t ask.

But coming back to the title of this post, I did book two tours. One to hike High Atlas and second to see the desert. The first one was definitely very different from the casual ones, I’ve ever had before. Why?

The following day of my trip I woke up with a very high temperature, very unwell with a sore throat. Kind of a thing you can expect when coming during late November from a cold Europe to a country wormed up to 28-30C. Despite being sick and not really up for hiking, I decided to go anyway. It was agreed that transport will pick me up from my hotel at 8.30. So, ready, I was waiting, then waiting a little bit more, then It was already 9.30. I got worried a bit, but I gave another 30 minutes to wait (I guess, I like to wait;), then I called agency to ask what on earth is going on, how could they forget about looovelly Annaaa from Poooland. Well, yes, they kinda did. Agent was very apologetic, and he said that somebody is coming back to pick me up in 10 minutes. Ok then, I thought, I will wait. After 10 minutes a man came and told me to fallow him, so I did. He took me to the cafe shop where 2 Moroccans were sitting, then he announce to me that I will go with them. I asked-ok, so we will catch up with the rest of the group? He said no, they are gone already, we will go alone. I said – no, I am not coming alone with you – but they were pressuring me that its ok, and we will go alone, I mean me and two of them…in their private old car. I recon, it’s because of my high temperature, I agreed. As soon as we headed off, I wasn’t sure If I will be alive by tomorrow, was scared and couldn’t understand why I did agree.

So what happened after? Nothing really. I’ve had the most wonderful private day trip and hike. Definitely one of the best tours, I have ever booked. Apart from the fact that as the only one I was in control of where will we stop and for how long, I’ve had a private guide while hiking Mountains. Here, I have to say hello to him, as my guide was so so nice to me, adapting the speed, of quieted difficult hike on rocks, to my speed, and the way I felt that day. Thought, as female solo, better not to fallow what I ve done, as you never know, this trip came as one of the coolest. We chatted a lot, so I’ve had a chance to learn about current political issues, economy and general lifestyle in Morocco. Please see my photos of this, scary at first, amazing at the and, day trip around Magnificent range of African mountains.

Funny things we have learned from backpacking

Alright, buckle up, buttercups, because we’re about to embark on a whirlwind tour of… well, travel! Prepare your funny bones and your passports, because this blog post is about to get as lost as your luggage.

Travel: The Art of Being Wrong in a Foreign Country (and Loving It)

So, you’ve decided to travel? Congratulations! You’ve officially signed up for a masterclass in miscommunication, questionable street food, and the eternal quest for a decent Wi-Fi signal.

First things first: Pack light. (Said no traveler ever.) Seriously, though, try to resist the urge to bring your entire wardrobe. You’ll end up lugging a suitcase the size of a small car, and trust me, that’s not a good look when you’re trying to navigate cobblestone streets.

Next, embrace the chaos. Getting lost is practically a rite of passage. Consider it an opportunity to discover hidden gems, practice your charades with locals, and maybe, just maybe, stumble upon the world’s best gelato. (It’s a real possibility, folks.)

Language barriers? They’re your new best friend. Learn a few basic phrases, butcher them with gusto, and prepare for a lot of laughter. The locals will appreciate the effort, even if you’re ordering “two pizzas and a goat” instead of “two pizzas and a Coke.”

Food: Be adventurous! Try everything! (Except maybe that suspicious-looking thing from the street vendor. Use your judgment.) You’ll discover flavors that will blow your mind (and possibly your digestive system).

Finally, remember to relax and enjoy the ride. Travel is messy, unpredictable, and often hilarious. So, go forth, explore, and make memories that will last a lifetime… or at least until your next Instagram post. Happy travels!

Tikal, then back to the future

  Seeing three, planned just one. Who and how? Me to visit not one, but three major ancient remaining sides of a magnificent Mayans (Tikal), Incas (Machu Picchu) and Aztecs (Teotihuacan) empires. Pretty great thing for someone who always was interested in archaeology. As a great Star Wars fan too, along with discovering the ruins, I could put my foot on one of the locations used in Episode IV and Rogue One movie. Day tour to Tikal definitely was one of favourite days in Guatemala. Despite the fact that I took an organised tour, it still felt very adventurous walking in the jungle discovering structure by structure, temple by temple. Hiking some of them, and finally finishing the whole tour by watching the disappearance of the sun in to the rain forest above, from the highest Mayan`s construction on the side. Remainings, in combination with Tikal`s remote location, create a mysterious atmosphere that only few other Mayan sites possess. These temples signify are one of the most important Mayan cities that dominated much of the Mayas world politically, economically, and militarily for centuries. The impressive structures lie scattered around the area. Today, many ruins are still covered by jungle. Tikal is just spectacular with their mystery labyrinth of limestone structures. You can wander around for hours. From a grassy central plaza alone through palace courtyards and bedrooms, or scramble up the north acropolis, with its jumble of temples, stumpy, pillar-shaped altars and carved-stone stellar, some with hieroglyphs still visible.

 The side is best enjoyed as an organised trip. They are very affordable at just 10-15$ for a day tour to Tikal, and that includes transport and guide. The ticket to the side cost around 20$. Having a tour guide, in my opinion and in this case, is very important, otherwise you can miss on loads of information. It is also good to hear the history from local blood. You will be given enough time at area to properly look around and discover the park. Trip can be book in most of the hostels/hotels and tour agents. Flores is just full of them, and prices, as well as trips, are very similar, so no point to look around for too long. You can either book an early morning one, or an afternoon one. The first trip offers experiencing a raising sun over the park, but please note that it is watchable from the last and biggest temple, so I really think its best to leave it to the end. Not even mentioning that you will have to get up very early, and the price is also way higher. The afternoon option offers watching a sunset, so you will basically spend a time at the side, walking around the jungle, discovering loads of temples and structures, to finally finish at the biggest one, waiting for the beautiful time of even more beautiful sun disappearing in to magnificent panorama of temples and rain forest. I really suggest to book this trip, unless of course you have to rush. However, if you prefer to do it alone, you can catch a bus that goes there. Regular second class buses leave from the Santa Elena (located south from the Flores island) bus station to Tikal at 06:00, 06:30, 07:00, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30, 12:30, 13:00 and 15:00 arriving two hours later. It cost around 4$. A bus will stop in Tikal between 16:00 and 16:30 and continue onward to Uaxactún. The local buses do not run on Sundays. Beware about buying a round trip ticket from “Exploradores de la Cultura Maya” from the Santa Elena bus station as they may sell you a return ticket for a bus that doesn’t exist. The park’s main gate opens at 06:00, and officially closes at 18:00. Good advise is to take with you as much water as possible, 2-3 liters, before entering. I don’t think I have to explain you how hot is in this part of the world, not even mentioning that you will spend about 5-6 hours at the side, climbing some high temples. There are no shops inside, only, if you’re lucky, one man got a stand next to the highest, and last (!), temple with some drinks to sell. Whatever way you will choose, the main thing is to visit Tikal! It is a number one attraction in Guatemala, kind of a “Machu Piccu” of Central America. It is really amazing to discover how the pyramids were build, along with other structures, hidden in the jungle. To experience and access the ancient world. Its like going back in the past, but without DeLorean and a crazy doc.3101

Highlights of Kathmandu

 It will be very difficult for me to write about all must see places in Kathmandu, as I know most of them got destroyed during the earthquake. I was fortunate to see them all just days before it happened. I don’t know how temples look like now, two years after. Maybe some of them got restored. Definitely not a Durban Square, as I’ve heard from Nepalese that it won’t be fully possible, as of XII century technique they used to build it. More or less, Nepal is a highly spiritual country with strong Buddhism influence, you can see and feel all round. I’ve heard once a saying that there are more temples than houses, so I am sure you still will be able to discover loads of them undamaged. Here are some things I did during my stay there, before earthquake struck.sdsdsd.jpg

  • Durban Square

  It’s a number one must see place in Kathmandu. I couldn’t wait to see them while planning my trip back home. There are three of them: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. All of them are fantastic and absolutely breathe-taking. Unique and diverse architecture, that include houses and ancient temples that belong to the periods between 12th and 18th centuries, will take you back in time. All three of them are the main cultural and spiritual places  in Kathmandu.fff I am afraid, I was one of the last people to see them as they were. I know, and I saw, that they  got completely destroyed. I still think it’s worth seeing  what remains now. The major Interesting things to see in Kathmandu Durban Square are: “Kumari Gar” (The Living Goddess), “Kastha Mandap”, Maru Ganesh, Mahadev Temple, Shiva Parvati Temple, Bhagwati Temple, Old palace, Saraswoti temple, Krishna Octangular Temple, Kal Bhairav, Jagannath Temple and Taleju Temple. In Patan I have to highlight: Patan Museum, Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Mahabouddha, Golden and Krishna Temple. In the last one you will be able to view the stunning Golden and Lion`s Gate and four temples: Mini Pashupati, Vatsala, Nyatapola and Bhairava Nath. Yeah I know….loads of temples 🙂

  •  View from the Swayambhunath

 After a wonderful walk with few local kids that kindly showed me the way to the Monkey Temple, even that I knew it anyway, I was able to see the great Himalayan range for the first time. You can already spot mountains from the bridge just in front of the entrance. Monkey Temple is an ancient religious complex situated at the top of the hill west of Kathmandu city center. It is very easy just to walk there from Thamel. I would say it will take just an hour of slow walk. After that you have to hike long stairway with 365 steps leading directly to the main platform of the temple. Up there you will face the beautiful view of the city. There`s loads of spiritual things to see around. Just watch out for the monkeys that can still anything you have in your hands, they really don’t give a…

  •    Walking with one local

I don’t usually like to walk with anyone, but I’ve met a student from India that came to Nepal to study Buddhism. At the very beginning he was honest, as he told me that he can show me around if I will buy a bag of rice after for him. I agreed, a bit skeptic, but it was so worth it. He showed me loads of places, I would never discover myself. It’s amazing how you can walk through one small door and see behind one of the most thrilling structures you have ever seen. The religion influence is present, visible and felt everywhere. You won’t be even able to count all the statues there. I am also pointing this to convince you guys to have a tour with local. Buying food would help those students too.

  •    Hospitality

 The Kindness and hospitality of Nepalese is just beyond anything you have experienced before. After all I have witnessed on the streets, shops, hotel, I was able to watch how they all helped each other in that extremely difficult time after the earthquake. I went to Nepal to see the landscape, Himalayas, nature, but I really felt in love with the people there. After visiting 50 countries, they are still my number one.

Kosovo-Serbia border crossing issues

  This will be just a quick guide for all backpackers that are going to travel to Kosovo before Serbia, like myself. I will conclude all the information, you can find online, with my very recent experience on the issue (April 2017).

First, and most important, thing is that of course you can travel to Kosovo before heading to Serbia. However, you can not go directly from Kosovo. You have to do it via other country that is recognized by Serbian authorities. I, for example, from Pristina took a direct bus to Skopje in Macedonia (just 2h of journey). They ran very often from the main bus terminal, almost every hour. Mine was at 8.30 am. From Skopje you will catch another direct bus to Nis or Belgrade, or other city in Serbia. My departure to Nis was at 13.10 (4h of journey) from the same station, so Ive had some time to have a lunch.

Ok, so this all seems not so complicated and easy, but there are loads of issues about not being allowed to Serbia with the Kosovo stamps in your passport.IMG_2068.JPG Official uk.gov page adds a real drama to it, as it is written there that you can not cross the border, once you got stamped. Well, how can you not believe the official UK government info? No you can’t. I guess its been written to warn travelers that having a stamp might cause some problems, but it really doesn’t in practice.IMG_2070.JPG I’ve had a 2 big, fat Kosovo stamps in my passport, and I crossed the border with no drama. Just make sure to ask Macedonian side (or wherever you’re coming from) to stamp you, as they don’t always do so. Serbian border control went through all my stamps with no issues and just put a new Serbian visa in.

I have read that these two governments came to an agreement not to cause any further problem to the travelers, as it`s been known that some were refused to get in in the past. With my confidence, as of April 2017, I can assure you that you can enter Serbia with stamps from Kosovo, but you need to be stamp after in the country you are going via! Much love and good luck xx.

Matka Canyon by public bus from Skopje 2025

  Once in Skopje Matka Canyon is a place you just have to visit. I could start with important reasons like: the beauty of the place, clear green waters of the Treska River, path trial trough the canyon…loads.

But how about the fact that Matka is located just 15 kilometers from the city? Yeah I know, just around the corner. Even if you are visiting capital just for one day, you can still add it to your schedule, as the public bus takes only 30-40 minutes to reach the canyon, and it arrives just right before the entrance. You can even get there by taxi.

To reach Matka Canyon from Skopje, here’s what you need to know:

  • Bus Route: Take bus N60 from the main bus station in Skopje. The bus stop is located at Pošta 1.
  • Fee: The bus ticket costs 35 MKD (approximately €0.60) each way. You will need a Skopje public transport card to pay for the fare.
  • Travel Time: The bus ride takes about 55 minutes, and from the drop-off point, it’s a 20-minute walk to the canyon.
  • Alternative Options: You can also take a taxi directly to Matka Canyon, which costs around €20–€25 and takes approximately 30 minutes.

There is no entrance fee for the canyon itself, but activities like kayaking or boat trips have separate charges.

  So in order to get to Matka Canyon, you have to take a number 60 bus that leaves from the main bus station. Please note that the stop is actually located on the right hand side of the main bus terminal behind the petrol station. The stand is somewhere in the middle, and it has a sign with number N60 next to it, so you really will find it with no hustle. Ultimately, you can catch it also from the city center, as the bus makes loads of stops in Skopje on the way.

The updated timetable for Bus N60 from Skopje to Matka Canyon in 2025 is as follows:

  • Departures from Skopje: 7:00 / 8:45 / 10:30 / 12:10 / 14:00 / 15:30 / 16:50 / 18:35 / 20:10 / 22:30
  • Return from Matka Canyon to Skopje: 7:45 / 9:40 / 11:20 / 13:05 / 14:55 / 16:20 / 17:45 / 19:20 / 21:00

The bus departs from the main bus station in Skopje, specifically from the stop located on the right-hand side of the terminal, behind the petrol station. Be sure to arrive at the stop at least 15 minutes early, as buses may occasionally leave ahead of schedule.


Unlucky, most of the bus stands here in capital don’t have any information, so you have to ask locals where is the most convenient stop for you, if you are not going from the main one or the one near the city center (tagged on the photo). In order to travel you need to buy a card. You can not pay to the driver by cash any longer. The travel card cost 150 MKD. That`s enough for 2 ways, and probably you will have some money on it left that you can use later on for other buses, if needed. Please don’t panic if the bus is late, it`s normal. I, for example, waited 10 minutes.

Going back

The updated timetable for Bus N60 returning from Matka Canyon to Skopje in 2025 is:

  • Departures from Matka Canyon: 7:45 / 9:40 / 11:20 / 13:05 / 14:55 / 16:20 / 17:45 / 19:20 / 21:00

The bus departs from the same location where you were dropped off upon arrival. It’s recommended to arrive at the stop at least 15 minutes early, as buses may occasionally leave ahead of schedule.